It is curious that in this somewhat wild and at present uninteresting
locality we found more traces of ruins and bygone habitations than are
found in any other part of the island. About five miles from Ras Momi,
and hidden by an amphitheatre of low hills on the watershed between the
two seas, we came across the foundations of a large square building,
constructed out of very large stones, and with great regularity. It was
105 feet square; the outer wall was 6 feet thick, and it was divided
inside into several compartments by transverse walls. To the south-east
corner was attached an adjunct, 14 by 22 feet. There was very little soil
in this building; and nothing whatever save the foundations to guide us
in our speculations as to what this could be. Other ruins of a ruder and
more irregular character lay scattered in the vicinity, and at some
remote period, when Sokotra was in its brighter days, this must have been
an important centre of civilisation.
None of the natives would help us to dig in this place. They are very
much afraid of the Devil, and think the ground under the ruins is hollow
and that there is a house in it. At one time hopes were held out that the
sacrifice of a goat might avert danger, but, after all, we and Matthaios
had to do the best we could in the way of digging. We always carried
tools with us. My part consisted in tracing out the walls with the trowel
and moving stones.
My husband and I found it most difficult next day to take the
measurements in the high wind.
From Saihon my husband climbed up a steep and rugged mountain to a ruined
village on a strong place called Zerug. Ammar's family mansion was near:
a cave containing three women, some children, and large flocks of goats,
kept in the cave by a wall; it is heated at night, and very stuffy.
Before leaving this corner of the island we journeyed to the edge of the
plateau and looked down the steep cliffs at the eastern cape, where Ras
Momi pierces, with a series of diminishing heights, the Indian Ocean. The
waves were dashing over the remains of the wreck, still visible, of a
German vessel which went down here with all hands some few years ago, and
the Bedouin produced for our edification several fragments of German
print, which they had treasured up, and which they deemed of fabulous
value. Ras Momi somewhat reminded us of Cape Finisterre, in Brittany, and
as a dangerous point for navigation it also resembles it closely. Near
the summit of one hill we passed an ancient and long disused reservoir,
dug in the side of it, and constructed with stones; and during our stay
here we visited the sites of many ancient villages, and found the cave
charnel-houses already alluded to.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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