We had very little milk while there; none till the last two days. A man
was drinking a bowlful in our camp, and this is the surprising way in
which he did it: he dipped his hand in and sucked his fingers (not clean
ones at first), and so continued till he had finished it all up. Our
visitors used sometimes suddenly to hurry off to pray, choosing a bit of
damp sand, and when they returned some of the sand was sticking to their
foreheads. The longer that sand stayed on the better, as it was
considered a sign of a religious man.
We had an anxious battle with white ants also. A basket was nearly
devoured by them, but our best steamer raiment was preserved by the inner
lining of American cloth, though they were sitting on it in sheets. We
had remarked in South Africa that they never eat mackintosh. The basket
was brushed over the sea, steeped in the lagoon, and inundated with
boiling water. This was the only thing attacked of all that we had left
behind when we were in Hadibo the first time.
Our brown ship, 70 feet in length by 15 wide, did really look a very
'mere nutshell' to go 500 miles over the great ocean in, but it was far,
far better than some we had been in.
From the deck Sokotra looked almost too beautiful to leave.
The weather was very rough, the sailors not nearly ready, and it was
midday before we started. By this time all the servants were prostrate,
and my husband had to get the sailors to help him in setting up our beds,
and arranging the baggage in the place between decks astern, which was 31/2
feet high, and, as the beds had to be tied to each other, 2 feet apart,
as well as to the sides of the ship, we had to bend low and step high
when moving about. The two Somali servants managed wonderfully to take it
in turns to be well after a bit, but Matthaios was one of the worst, so
food was a difficulty and his wrath was great when, Mahmoud having made
us tea like ink, he found the tea canister empty. We had rough weather
enough, but the wind was favourable. We were always afraid of falling off
our seats at meals, for we were perched anywhere, on anything we could
get, round our kitchen box as a table. Bruises alone were not the cause
of our terror, but the fact is that the sailors were always shaking their
raiment and making those searching and successful investigations,
accompanied by that unmistakable movement of the elbows and backs of the
thumb-nails, which literally 'give one the creeps.'
The captain had a compass, but no other instrument of any kind, and none
of the sailors seemed to know the way. They showed us islands, which we
knew to be such, as the African coast, and Cape Guardafui where we knew
it could not be.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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