The Sultan Salem bin Saleh's old abandoned castle had some nice
decoration about it. They left it because there were so many jinni
(_i.e._ ghosts) in it. Our informant had not seen them, but only heard of
them.
March the 12th my husband went up what he thought was the highest
mountain of the Goddam range, Minzoko, just behind Naab, and made it
2,000 feet, but considered when he got to the top that its neighbour
Haidenaab was 300 or 400 feet higher. The Tarik Minzoko goes between
them.
The sultan sent to our camp some bowls of food, soup, and a fowl cut up
and cooked in gravy, very rich with oil and onions. It would have been
good but for the stuffy, bitter taste of myrrh, which they like so much
to put in their food. He also sent us red cakes of millet bread.
A poet of Naab made a _merghazi_ on us during our stay, about our
treatment by the Yafei sultan: how he had demanded money of us and how he
had bidden us return to Aden. This was thought so excellent by everybody
that my husband was forced to take a copy of it from dictation and Sultan
Salem took a copy back to Shukra.
Our party was now increased by another 'prince,' Sultan Haidar, son of
the sultan of Naab, a person delightful to contemplate. He was got up in
Bedou style; his hair, fluffy and long, was tied back by a fillet and
stuck out in a bush behind. He had a curious countenance and very weak
eyes. He was wrapped in a couple of large blue cotton cloths with very
long fringes, half a yard at least. The cotton is plastered with indigo,
even beyond the dye, and when calendered, as the clothes are when new,
gleam purple and red. The richer you are the bluer you are, and Sultan
Haidar was very blue indeed. The curious thing about these blue people is
that, as the prominent parts of the face and body are the darkest, there
is an odd inside-out effect.
While in Naab we had our usual number of patients, but the one we were
most interested in was a woman who had a dreadfully sore foot. The foot
was very much swollen, and there was a sore on her instep and ankle in
which one could nearly put one's fist. This had never been washed, though
it had been going on for some years, and it had a dressing composed of
half a pound or so of dates stuffed into it. The poor creature lay on a
sort of bedstead or _charpai_ in a tidy little house consisting of one
room and lighted only by the door.
My husband set off at once half a mile back to camp to fetch the
necessary relief and I waited, sitting on a cloak that someone rolled up
on the floor, for there was not even a carpet to sit on. I was afraid of
various insects, but I could not rudely stand, and I should have had to
stand a good time as my husband had a mile to walk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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