From this spot I had to be carried to the sea, seventeen miles, on my
bed, which was strengthened with tent-pegs and slung on tent-poles. From
the little sultan downwards there was not one who did not help most
kindly. We went down gently 3,000 feet. I cannot describe this journey,
except that it was so very winding that I seemed to see the camels
meeting and passing me often. Fortunately the crossing of the low hot
Abyan was short.
I dreaded the journey, as I thought my bearers would not keep step, but
they did wonderfully well, though of course they had no path to walk in,
for two men and the bed were far too wide for any path there was. I saw
one man double up his legs and go over a boulder 3 feet or 4 feet high;
and they kept me very even too, and only dropped my head once; the
bearers changed as smoothly as if they were accustomed to it, and were
always saying something kind to me.
I was not pleased at first at being carried off very suddenly head first,
but it was certainly sweeter not having all those men in front of me, and
I rejoiced in a delicious sea-wind, which blew stronger and stronger, and
just seemed to keep me alive. I was very grateful to them, and took good
care never to ask if we had still far to go.
How glad I was to find myself in a rushing, roaring, rabble rout of men,
women, and children tearing along beside me!--not a thing I generally
like, but now it told me of the end of my weary journey. I was deposited
on my bed in a tower, tent-pegs and poles removed, and left with a
spearman on the doorstep to keep off intruders. The rest of our miserable
fever-stricken party came in half an hour later. The sultan of the Fadhli
came to our tent to see us--a pleasant-faced mustard-coloured man; and
also his wife, the daughter of an Aden sheikh, a very handsome woman.
They were very kind in sending milk, watermelons, and any little luxury
they could. The sultan lived in a fine brown building with a stunted
tower, a glorified Arab house, but nothing like those in the Hadhramout.
They send sharks' fins to China from here, as well as from Sokotra and
the Somali coast. This is probably Ptolemy's Agmanisphe Kome. It is just
the right distance from Arabia-Emporium, _i.e._ one day; so we found it.
There was the greatest difficulty in getting a boat, for none of the
ships wished to go to Aden, for fear of quarantine, as they would be
supposed to be coming from the plague-stricken Bombay. My husband
promised 100 rupees for every day, and the sultan compelled a captain
whose baggala was loaded for Mokalla to take us to Aden, by refusing to
give him his papers otherwise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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