We had many an interesting stroll round the sultan's gardens at Al Koton,
and watched the cultivation of spices and vegetables for the royal table,
or rather floor; the lucerne and clover for his cattle, the indigo and
henna for dyeing purposes, and the various kinds of grain. But on the
cultivation of the date-palm the most attention is lavished; it was just
then the season at which the female spathe has to be fructified by the
male pollen, and we were interested in watching a man going round with an
apron full of male spathes. With these he climbed the stem of the female
palm, and with a knife cut open the bark which encircles the female
spathe, and as he shook the male pollen over it he chanted in a low
voice, 'May God make you grow and be fruitful.' No portion of the palm is
wasted in the Hadhramout: with the leaves they thatch huts and make
fences, the date stones are ground into powder as food for cattle, and
they eat the nutty part which grows at the bottom of the spathes, and
which they called _kourzan_. On a journey a man requires nothing but a
skin of dates, which will last him for days, and, when we left, Sultan
Salah gave us three goat-skins filled with his best dates, and large tins
of delicious honey--for which the Hadhramout was celebrated as far back
as Pliny's time[11]--which he sent on camels to the coast for us, as
well as a large inscribed stone that I now have in my house.
Innumerable wells are dotted over this cultivated area, the water from
which is distributed over the fields before sunrise and after sunset. The
delicious creaking noise made by heaving up the buckets greeted us every
morning when we woke, delicious because it betokened plenty of water: and
these early morning views were truly exquisite. A bright crimson tinge
would gradually creep over the encircling mountains, making the parts in
shade of a rich purple hue, against which the feathery palm-trees and
whitewashed castles stood out in strong contrast. All the animals
belonging to the sultan are stabled within the encircling wall, and
immediately beneath the palace windows; the horses' stable is in the open
courtyard, where they are fed with rich lucerne and dates when we should
give corn. Here also reside the cows and bullocks, which are fed every
evening by women, who tie together bunches of dried grass and make it
appetising by mixing therewith a few blades of fresh lucerne; the sheep
and the goats are penned on another side, whilst the cocks and hens live
in and around the main drain. All is truly patriarchal in character.
The sultan only possesses four horses, and one of these, a large white
mare, strangely enough came from the Cape of Good Hope, _via_ Durban and
Bombay. The sultan of Makalla had three. The 'Arab courser' lives farther
north.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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