Southern Spain, Painted by Trevor Haddon, Described by A. F. CalvertCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Southern Spain, Painted by Trevor Haddon, Described by A. F. Calvert
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Spain -- Description and travel
No visitor to the Alhambra must omit to walk round the outer wall or
enceinte, and to inspect the towers. The Torre de las Damas, a fortified
tower dating from the time of Yusuf I., was inhabited by Ismaïl, the
brother of Mohammed V., and marked the palace limits on this side. It
contains a tastefully decorated hall. Adjacent to it is a beautiful if
gaudy little Mohammedan mihrab or oratory, approached through a private
garden. Here was the house of Anastasio de Bracamonte, the esquire of
the Conde de Tendilla, to whom was assigned the custody of the Alhambra
at the Reconquest. The Puerta de Hierro, a little further on, was
restored at the same time, and faces the gate and path leading to the
Generalife. Passing the Torre de los Picos, we reach the Torre de
la Cautiva, which contains a beautiful chamber, over which a lovely rosy
tint is diffused by the tiles and stucco. The Torre de las Infantas,
built by Mohammed VII., is a perfect example of an Oriental
dwelling-house. Through the usual zigzag vestibule you reach a hall with
a fountain in the centre and alcoves in three of the sides. The
decoration is perhaps over elaborate. The towers on the other side of
the enceinte were, as I have said, intended mainly for defence. Near the
ruinous Torre del Agua, at the south-east extremity, a viaduct crosses
the ravine from the Generalife, and some of the water precipitates
itself over the brow of the hill in a mass of vivid living greenery.
Further on, towards the Gate of Justice, is the Torre de los Siete
Suelos, through which Boabdil is said to have made his last exit. It is
supposed to extend far underground, and to contain much buried treasure.
So at least Irving was told by the inhabitants, or possibly told them!
Hence issues the Belludo, the spectral pack, which traverses the streets
of Granada by night--also according to legend. This story of the Wild
Huntsman crops up, in one form or another, in every part of Europe.
There are the Dandy Dogs in Cornwall, the Wild Huntsman in Germany,
Thibaut le Tricheur in the valley of the Loire, the Chasseur Noir of
Fontainebleau, and so on. Folk-lore of this sort is easily fabricated.
Foreigners in search of the picturesque ask the natives of such a place
as this if ghosts do not haunt the ruins. The guide, anxious to please,
says "Doubtless!" The foreigner goes on to tell him of spectres that
affect this particular class of building at home; and the guide readily
devises a local version of the yarn for the benefit of the next
stranger. I have found that the peasantry in most European countries
hear of their local traditions and folk-lore first through the medium of
books. And these remarks apply with especial force to the people of
Latin countries, whom, contrary to the received opinion, I know to be
less imaginative and less superstitious than northerners. It is natural
that the gloomy forests of Germany and Sweden, rather than the sunlit
plains of Andalusia, should generate dark fancies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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