Southern Spain, Painted by Trevor Haddon, Described by A. F. CalvertCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Southern Spain, Painted by Trevor Haddon, Described by A. F. Calvert
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Spain -- Description and travel
We are now in the neighbourhood of the second great sight of
Granada--the Cathedral with its adjoining buildings. The church called
the Sagrario is an eighteenth-century structure immediately adjoining
the west front of the Cathedral, on the south side, which served for a
time as the metropolitan church of Granada. The interior is sombre,
heavy, and Churrigueresque--a style which, it always strikes me, might
have been devised by an undertaker accustomed to a high-class business.
One of the chapels, however, is interesting. It contains the bones of
"the magnificent cavalier, Fernando del Pulgar, Lord of El Salar," as
the inscription records. This gallant knight, during the last siege of
Granada, penetrated into the city with fifteen horsemen, and nailed a
paper bearing the Ave Maria on the door of the mosque. This brave
exploit earned for him and his descendants the right of remaining
covered in the Cathedral and before the king. In Philip II.'s time the
Marqués del Salar, the representative of the family, was fined for
appearing covered before the High Court of Granada. He appealed to the
king, invoking the privilege conferred on his ancestor. "Not so,"
replied Philip; "you may wear your bonnet in the presence of the king,
but not in the sacred presence of Justice." With the fine was built the
staircase in the Audiencia in the Plaza Nueva.
Behind the Sagrario is the mausoleum of Ferdinand and Isabella--the
Capilla Real--a temple peculiarly sacred in the eyes of all good
Spaniards. The two great sovereigns lie here in the heart of the city
which they recovered for Christendom, even as many great soldiers have
caused their remains to be buried on the sites of their greatest
victories. The chapel, founded in 1504 and completed in 1517, is a noble
example of late Gothic. The exterior is very simple, the decoration
consisting mainly of two highly ornate balustrades, surmounting each of
the two stages. The well-known devices and monograms of the
founders are interwoven with the decoration. Through a portal flanked by
the figures of heralds we enter the chapel--plain, bright, and airy. The
chancel is railed off by a magnificent grille of gilt ironwork, wrought
by Maestre Bartolomé of Jaen, in 1522. Between this and the altar are
the superb tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, and of their daughter Joanna
and her husband, Philip I. The former is ascribed to a Florentine
sculptor, Domenico Fancelli.
[Illustration: GRANADA--INTERIOR OF A POSADA]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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