Southern Spain, Painted by Trevor Haddon, Described by A. F. CalvertCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Southern Spain, Painted by Trevor Haddon, Described by A. F. Calvert
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Spain -- Description and travel
St. Cecilius, at all events, was known to fame before the alleged
discovery of his grave; for in the Antequeruela quarter an oratory
dedicated to him existed throughout the Moorish domination, and was the
only Christian place of worship within the city. I do not think that
any trace of it is to be detected now. In that part of the city is the
Casa de los Tiros, where you must apply for tickets for the Generalife;
it is worth seeing on its own account, and it is the repository of the
sword of Boabdil, which seems to have more claims to authenticity than
most of the relics of the Little King. Descending towards the Puerta
Real we pass the Cuarto de Santo Domingo, a private villa in which is
incorporated all that remains of an Almohade palace. Near by, against
the church of Santo Domingo, is an exceedingly picturesque little
archway where one can fancy a bravo waiting, stiletto in hand. The
Campillo, in the centre of which rises the statue of Mariana Pineda, is
a quiet little square enough, referred to (as the Rondilla) by Cervantes
as a resort of adventurers and desperadoes. These gentry are now more
likely to be found in the immediately adjacent Alameda, outside the
hotel of the same name, where the cafés and tables spread in front of
them seem exceedingly well patronized.
[Illustration: GRANADA--THE GENERALIFE: PATIO DE LA ACEQUIA]
Following the Genil, and leaving the unimpressive monument of Columbus
and Isabella to the left, you reach, after a walk overpoweringly
fatiguing in summer, the little Ermita de San Sebastian. This was a
Moorish oratory in old days, and outside it took place the surrender of
the keys by Boabdil on the memorable 2nd of January, 1492. If you go
farther on--and I doubt if you will be tempted to--you will come to a
very old Moorish palace called the Alcazar Genil, now the property
of the Duke of Gor. Here, says Simonet, were lodged the Christian
princes and knights who so often found an asylum at the court of
Granada. In the gardens are tanks once used, it is believed, for mimic
naval fights. In the same direction, I understand, is Zubia. Here
Isabella the Catholic, reconnoitring the city during the siege, narrowly
escaped capture by a Moorish patrol. She concealed herself behind a
laurel bush, which is still pointed out. Another instance of the small
chances that determine the fate of kingdoms! To commemorate her escape
the queen built near by a convent, which has long since disappeared.
You may return to the city by the Puerta Verde, near the Bab-en-Neshti
or Puerta de los Molinos, through which the Spaniards entered after
Boabdil's submission.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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