Spain in 1830, vol. 1Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 1
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
shade, is still greater, because there are there neither coverings nor
awnings: so important, indeed, is this distinction considered, that
there is not only one price for places in the sun, and another for
places in the shade, but there is an intermediate price for places
partly in the sun and partly in the shade,--exposed to the sun during
the first part of the evening, but left in shade the latter part of it.
The best places in the boxes cost about 4_s._; the best in the
amphitheatre below, about 2_s._ 6_d._; the commonest place, next to the
arena, costs four reals. In the centre of the west side, is the king’s
box; and scattered here and there, are the private boxes of the grandees
and amateurs, distinguished by coloured silk drapery hanging over the
front. In the boxes, I saw as many women as men,--and in the lower
parts, the female spectators were also sufficiently numerous; all wore
mantillas: and in the lower parts of the amphitheatre which were exposed
to the sun, every spectator, whether man or woman, carried a large
circular paper fan, made for the occasion, and sold by men who walk
round the arena before the fight begins, raising among the spectators
their long poles, with fans suspended, and a little bag fixed here and
there, into which the purchaser drops his four quartos (1¼_d._).
The people now began to shew their impatience, and shouts of _el toro_
were heard in a hundred quarters; and soon after, a flourish of trumpets
and drums announced that the spectacle was about to commence. This
created total silence,--one of the results of intense interest,--and the
motion of the fans was for a moment suspended:--First entered the chief
magistrate of the city, on horseback, preceded by two alguacils, or
constables, and followed by a troop of cavalry, who immediately cleared
the arena of every one who had no business there; next, an official
entered on foot, who read an ordonnance of the king, commanding the
fight, and requiring order to be kept; and these preliminaries having
been gone through, the magistrates and cavalry retired, leaving the
arena to the two picadores, who entered at the same moment. These are
mounted on horseback,--each holding a long lance or pike, and are the
first antagonists the bull has to encounter; they stationed themselves
on different sides of the arena, about twenty yards from the door at
which the bull enters; and at a new flourish of trumpets, the gate flew
open, and the bull rushed into the arena: this produced a deafening
shout, and then total silence. The bulls differ very widely in courage
and character: some are rash,--some cool and intrepid,--some wary and
cautious,--some cowardly. Some, immediately upon perceiving the horse
and his rider, rush upon them; others run bellowing round the
arena,--some make towards one or other of the Chulos, who at the same
moment that the bull appears, leap into the arena with coloured cloaks
upon their arms; others stop, after having advanced a little way into
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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