Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
The finest point of view in the neighbourhood of Granada, is not from
the Alhambra; because the view must be imperfect, unless the Alhambra be
itself one of the features. The chapel of St. Michael, upon the opposite
height, is the spot to be attained; and to this little excursion, I
devoted a morning. The hill upon which the chapel stands, is one
labyrinth of aloes and Indian fig, which form an impenetrable thicket,
unless where the zig-zag path is cut; and of so sturdy a growth are
these, that the prospect towards the city and the Vega is entirely shut
out. But this mount is curious and interesting on another account: every
ten or twelve yards, you pass the exit of a narrow path cut through the
aloes, and leading, a few yards forward, to the door, or rather the
mouth of a hovel, excavated in the face of the hill. These habitations
are tenanted by the very lowest of the population, as may well be
believed; and I counted a hundred and forty of them. I requested
permission to enter one, at the door of which, a young woman in rags,
sat spinning flax; she told me that her husband was out with his gun
seeking rabbits, and the only other inmate of the hovel, was a child,
asleep upon a mattress on the ground. I saw no furniture, excepting two
stools and this mattress, and the light found its way in, and the smoke
its way out, at the entrance, to which there was no door; but the woman
said, that before winter, they meant to supply this want; and that they
also intended to construct a chimney, or, at least, a hole by which the
smoke might escape. I noticed that some of the other hovels had
chimneys, but I saw no one with a door. I was not sorry, when, after
many times losing my way in this labyrinth, set upon by fierce hungry
dogs, and meeting many suspicious-looking persons, I gained the summit
of the mount, and an open space where I could see around me. The view
was superb: in front stood the old Moorish town--on the left, lay the
ravine of the Daro--and beyond it, the whole range of the Alhambra, with
its towers, and walls, and arches, and pillars, and the rocky ridge upon
which it stands, beautifully shaded and coloured by the woods, over
which late autumn had thrown his rich and nameless tints: still higher,
stood the Xeneralife; and above this range, the dark defiles and snowy
summits of the Sierra, towered into the serene skies. The view was of a
different character, looking towards the west: Stretching from the foot
of the Alhambra, lay the city, with its many spires and towers, and all
its groves and gardens; and still farther, was spread out the rich and
fertile Vega, traversed by its winding rivers, and losing itself in the
hazy distance. Not wishing to run the risk of losing myself again in the
labyrinth of prickly pear, or to encounter the dogs--some of which owed
me a grudge, for having threatened them with a stone--I succeeded in
finding another road back to the city. In this walk, I could not but
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