Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Among the objects most worthy of notice in Granada, the cathedral must
not be passed over. I was already almost surfeited with marbles and
gilding, and paid little attention to these; but there are some other
things deserving of observation. Among them, the most remarkable and the
most beautiful, are the Sarcophagi of Ferdinand and Isabella, the
conquerors of Granada: which are of white marble,--sculptured with great
taste and delicacy. The sword and sceptre of these illustrious
personages, are preserved in the sacristy. I observed a curious notice
affixed to every conspicuous part of the walls, forbidding any man to
speak to a woman within the cathedral under the pain of excommunication,
and the penalty of two ducats, to be given to holy purposes; thus making
good spring out of evil. There were formerly some good pictures in the
cathedral, but they did not escape the rapacity of the French.
The convents of Granada are not distinguished for their pictures; but
the admirer of fine marbles will find nothing in the Escurial equal to
the marbles that adorn some of the convents of this city. I visited four
of the convents--the Dominicans, the Hieronomites, Juan de Dios, and the
Carthusians. The Dominican convent is remarkable as the depository of a
piece of marble found in the Sierra Nevada, upon which is distinctly
represented the flight into Egypt; or at all events, a pictorial
resemblance of the objects which are generally selected by the painter
to illustrate this piece of history: the marble is in so elevated a
situation, that suspecting some deception, I obtained a ladder, and
examined it closely; but I found that the friar had not deceived me.
Juan de Dios contains, besides much fine marble and innumerable relics,
the real body of John of God. The urn was formerly placed within a dome
of pure silver, supported by silver pillars, but the French carried off
these, and a wooden temple has been substituted: it is somewhat curious
that the French should have respected the saint so much as to leave the
silver urn in which his body is contained. Judging however, by the order
which he has instituted, the memory of John of God is entitled to
veneration. The monks of this order do not spend their lives in sloth,
but devote them to the succour of the wretched: there is always an
hospital attached to a convent of this order. The Carthusian convent of
Granada is one of the most splendid, and one of the richest in Spain:
its revenues are immense; and being inhabited by only eleven monks, who
live on fish and fruits, the convent treasury must be well stored. The
marbles of this convent are beyond price; and all the doors and the
panels round the sacristy are mosaic of mother-of-pearl, ivory, ebony,
and tortoise-shell. They have some pictures, said to be from the hand of
Murillo; but this I disbelieve.
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