Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
I had always looked upon this, as the journey in which I might expect to
find the most privations, and that most abounded in hazard; and the
little information I was able to receive at Granada, tended rather to
confirm than to dissipate these anticipations. It is, indeed,
surprising how very little information I was able to obtain at Granada:
there is no commerce between Granada and Murcia; the communication
between the southern provinces, and Valencia, and Catalunia, is entirely
carried on by sea; and the few persons who pass from Granada to the
east, generally take shipping at Malaga, for Valencia. Every one was
agreed, however, that the road was execrable, and totally impassable
after rain; that the accommodations upon the road were as bad as they
could be; and that the probabilities of robbery outweighed the chances
of escape. The few persons who had travelled that road, had invariably
taken an escort; and this I was told, I could by no means dispense with.
I resolved, however, to be guided by the opinion of General O’Lowlor;
and, acting upon his advice, I engaged a _tartana_, a small covered cart
with one mule, and a muleteer, recommended by him as an honest man. An
honest muleteer is the principal security of a traveller; for I am
convinced from what I have subsequently heard, that an escort is
totally useless, unless it be composed of soldiers; and, in a long
journey, the expense of a sufficient escort will amount to as much as
one runs the risk of losing by being robbed; because no traveller in
Spain ever carries an overflowing purse. The best mode is, to pay the
muleteer a part, before setting out, and the remainder at the end of the
journey, which can, of course, be managed by carrying a letter of
credit; and the traveller ought to carry in his pocket only what may
suffice for his personal expenses, with as much more added, as will
satisfy banditti, in case of being attacked by them; for otherwise, the
traveller is exposed to violence. If one chooses to hire four soldiers,
the risk of robbery is entirely at an end; but this, in a journey to
Murcia from Granada, would cost thirty-five dollars; exceeding by at
least fifteen dollars, the amount of the purse which it is necessary to
have in readiness, in case of meeting with robbers. An escort of
peasantry is totally useless. Many instances have occurred, in which
travellers have been betrayed by their escort; and I could hear of no
instance in which the escort had stood to defend the traveller; but,
indeed, it is better that they should run away, as resistance would only
endanger his life. Resistance is a thing that no traveller in certain
parts of Spain should ever dream of: before setting out, he must make up
his mind to the probability of being robbed, and provide accordingly;
not by hiring an escort, or by loading his pistols; but, by putting
about twenty dollars into a separate purse, to buy civility in case of
need; and by obtaining a letter of credit upon the next town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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