Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
seasonable addition to our party. After we set forward, the men behind
followed us a little way, probably to ascertain our numbers; they then
stood still; and in another quarter of an hour, they were no longer
visible.
The posada at Chirivel was almost as bad as the venta at Huetor; but
being nearly independent of the larder of the posada, I both drank tea
and supped comfortably, with that miserable substitute for a sea-coal
fire--a brasero--under the table; but I had no talisman against the
fleas, and was overjoyed to find myself free from their assaults, and on
the road next morning.
From Chirivel, the only road is the bed of a river, in which we
travelled three leagues, till we reached Velez el Rubio. The banks of
the stream, then almost dried up, are in many places precipitous; so
that I had been truly told in Granada, that in wet weather it is
impossible to travel to Murcia. The situation of Velez el Rubio is
picturesque: a ruined castle looks down upon it, and the environs are
tolerably well wooded; this improvement in the appearance of the
country, continues only about a league and a half beyond the town, when
every trace of cultivation is entirely lost; and a range of the most
desolate hills I ever travelled through, stretches to the east; these
are the hills that divide Granada from Murcia. The pass through them is
twenty-two miles long; and the whole of this distance there is not a
single human dwelling. It is not by a road, nor even by a path, but by
the bed of a torrent that these mountains are traversed; and this bed,
for the first eight miles, is not six feet wide, and is strewn with
enormous rocks, which force the traveller to be a pedestrian. During the
whole day, after entering these mountains, we met only one person; this
was a Capuchin friar, driving his ass before him, laden with two large
jars of oil, the gift of the good Catholics of Lorca, where he had been,
to beg this luxury for the use of his convent at Velez el Rubio. Since
there are no houses among these hills, it can scarcely be expected that
there should be any cultivation; I did not see one rood of cultivated
land, nor a single flock of any kind, not even a few goats. But this
country, desolate as it is, has some charms of its own. Rosemary, sweet
marjoram, thyme, lavender, and a thousand odoriferous and sweet smelling
plants, fill the air with their fragrance, and by so pleasingly
addressing one of the senses, withdraw the attention of another from the
spectacle of barrenness. After ascending in the bed of one torrent two
leagues, we reached the summit of the ridge, and then entered the
channel of another stream, in which we descended three leagues to
Puerto, our rendezvous for the night. Approaching this place, I observed
several little boys herding goats, with only a shirt on, and that shirt
a very ragged one. This, on the warm shores of Andalusia, or in the
plain of Murcia, would excite little compassion; but here, scarcely out
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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