Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
The best posada in Lorca I found worse than might have been expected in
a city containing twenty-five thousand inhabitants; and it was so
dirty,--certainly not a common fault in the posadas--that I breakfasted
in the yard. It chanced to be market-day at Lorca; and immediately after
I had breakfasted, I strolled through the town, and into the
market-place. Here I found many things new to me; for, as I have
observed before, the provinces of Spain differ greatly from each other
in dress, usages, &c. All the women wore a large square white woollen
shawl, thrown over the head like a mantilla; the men were seen with
short white drawers, untied at the knees, and reaching about two inches
lower; they had no stockings; upon their feet were sandals, made of
rope; and in place of the smart Spanish hat, they wore tapering black
caps, fitting close to the head, with a small rim turned up all round:
others, from the higher countries, were enveloped in blankets, generally
of gaudy colours,--some of them nearly approaching to tartan. All sorts
of things were exposed for sale: I saw an immense quantity of dried and
shell fruits; cloths and calicos of Catalunian manufactory; shoes,
especially rope sandals; quantities of the Esparto rush, and baskets
made of it; beads, rosaries, images, and trinkets; and, in short, every
thing that one either eats, or wears in the province of Murcia. In a
street in the neighbourhood of the market-place, the pig market was
held. I never saw a finer shew; for nowhere in the world, is the pig to
be found in so great perfection as in Spain--fed, as it is, in the
woods, upon the ilex nut. I asked the price of an enormous animal,
weighing one hundred and eighty-five lbs., and found it to be two
hundred and forty reals (about 2_l._ 8_s._); for a sucking-pig, they
asked fourteen reals. In Lorca, there is little beef; mutton sells at
twelve quartos; a fowl costs 1_s._ 8_d._, a hare 10_d._, bread 1½_d._
per lb. The price of labour in the vale of Lorca, is five reals, nearly
1_s._
I walked into the cathedral, but saw nothing worthy of notice, except
proofs of the liberality of the Archbishop of Carthagena, who has
published so great a number of indulgences, that the Catholics of Lorca
and other places in his diocese, may pray themselves out of purgatory
before they get into it. I saw one indulgence of forty days for every
paternoster, and an ave, said before the shrine of St. Francis; and
another of forty days for an ave, and a paternoster, said to St. Jago,
St. Anthony of Padua, St. Domingo, and St. Nicholas: but I saw nobody
taking advantage of these indulgences. The cathedral contains some
tolerable pictures by pupils of Murillo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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