Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Elche rises from the midst of a forest of palms, which encircles it and
mingles with the buildings, and which occupies altogether nearly a
league square. There is scarcely a vacant spot within, or about the
city, that is not covered with them; they crowd the gardens, they fringe
the banks of the stream, and in every direction are seen overtopping
the houses. And beautiful is the palm-tree at this season,--its majestic
stem rising to the height of eighty or a hundred feet, surmounted by the
clusters of bright golden dates, and its broad canopy of fan-like leaves
falling around like a circular plume. From a tower of the very ancient
palace of the Dukes of Arcos, I obtained a view over the city and the
surrounding country: this view was of so novel a character, that it will
bear no comparison with any other; it was simply the view of a palm
forest, which, from the great height of the trees, seemed unbounded,
with the city embosomed in it. This is all that can be said by way of
description; but the mere novelty of a view, embracing thousands, and
tens of thousands of these strangely beautiful trees, cannot fail to
delight the spectator.
I fared well in the posada, and drank delicious wines; and passed the
evening in conversation with the host and his family, and a neighbouring
grower and exporter of barilla, and other produce of the district. He
was an intelligent and communicative man; and from him I learnt some
particulars respecting Elche. Elche contains about 20,000 inhabitants,
and may be called a flourishing city; for the surrounding country,
besides its large produce of dates, abounds in barilla, of which the
export is very extensive. Last year, the export of barilla from Alicant,
but chiefly grown in the vicinity of Elche, amounted to no less than
200,000 quintals--twenty millions of lbs. The export of dates I could
not ascertain; but I afterwards learnt at Alicant, that a great
proportion of the dates imported to England as Barbary dates, are from
Elche; and in proof of this, I was shewn some boxes in a warehouse,
marked “Barbary dates.” The wages of field labour at Elche, are three or
four reals; and every thing is proportionably cheap; barley bread, which
is much used in this neighbourhood, is sold at two quartos (less than a
farthing) per pound. Elche possesses one important advantage over most
of the other Spanish cities: it is not overrun with priests and friars.
It contains only two churches, and two convents; and the inhabitants are
thus spared the expense of feeding the idle and useless incumbrances
who are so great a burthen upon the market people of Murcia, Orihuela,
Guadix, and other cities of the southern provinces. And besides this
advantage, the proportion of the religious bodies in Elche is so small,
that their influence acts feebly: self-interest has gained upon the
dominion of superstition; for I was informed, that the after part of
most of the holidays, enjoined, or recommended, by the Catholic church,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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