Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
At Alicant I heard the worst accounts of the road to San Felipe. Every
one agreed that there was the utmost danger of robbery, and urged upon
me the necessity of taking an escort. I recollected that at Mr.
Addington’s table at Madrid, I had been told by Captain C----k, a
gentleman well known for his enterprise in scientific pursuits, and
intimately acquainted with every part of Spain, that I should run the
greatest risk of robbery in the neighbourhood of San Felipe, and between
that town and Alicant; and being obliged to carry from Alicant a fuller
purse than it would have been convenient to lose, I yielded in this one
instance to the general opinion, and applied, through Mr. Waring, to the
governor, for an escort of four soldiers to Fuente de Higuera. The
danger of robbery upon this road is not by regular banditti, but by
itinerant or idle, or ill-disposed peasantry, who have frequently been
known to leave their work in the fields to intercept and rob a
traveller, and then return to their occupation.
I hired a tartana as usual, at the rate of three dollars a day; and left
Alicant about seven in the morning, accompanied by my four soldiers,
armed with guns, swords, and bayonets. The country, upon leaving
Alicant, is at first very interesting; after passing some low hills
about a league distant, we entered the little valley of Montforte,
which, with its handsome church, and Moorish castle, dominates over its
own fertile huerta. Between this place and Novilda, we passed a convent
of the Franciscan order, of vast extent, and in which I was informed
there are sixty monks. We also passed two men, whom the muleteer
recognised as two notorious thieves, who had lately been released from
prison. At Novilda we stopped, the muleteer to dine,--myself to take a
cup of chocolate. The streets of this village were spread in many places
with figs, drying in the sun, which any one appeared to have the liberty
of making free with. I picked up one or two, but found them indifferent.
From Novilda, we passed through a very partially cultivated country, but
affording some picturesque views; particularly of the Castle of Luna,
situated upon a very high rock; and soon after we descended into the
vale of Elda, by a singularly wild approach in a chasm through barren
gypsum hills. Walking in advance of the tartana, I observed in a deep
hollow below, a spectacle in perfect unison with the scenery. It was the
carcase of a mule, the possession of which was disputed by about a score
of ravens, and four very large lean dogs. The discharge of one of the
soldier’s muskets scarcely startled them; they were “too busy” to be
easily disturbed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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