Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
We were now in Catalunia, which in its accommodations, in the industry
of its inhabitants, and in the perfect security with which it may be
travelled in every part, has the advantage over all the other provinces
of Spain, with the exception, perhaps, of Biscay. It is not, however,
more, but perhaps less interesting to the traveller, for these very
reasons; if the accommodations on the road are better, they are more
like other countries, and therefore less novel; if there be no danger
from robbers, there is less excitement; and as for the industry of the
Catalunians, industry, although always a pleasing spectacle, possesses
no novelty. Catalunian industry does not arise from any superior
education, by which men obtain a clearer insight into their moral
duties, and higher views of the human character; on the contrary, no
Spanish peasant is more ignorant than a Catalunian boor; none are more
enslaved by the priesthood; and in no other province, have the
inhabitants shewn so much, their veneration for the apostolical party
both in church and state. The secret of Catalunian industry, is the same
as that which has covered with fertility many an Alpine valley in
Switzerland,--self-interest. Give to the labourers of the earth an
interest,--a property in the land which they cultivate, and the world
would become one wide extended garden. The land upon which the
Catalunian labours, is either his own, or held by him upon a lease,
sometimes for lives, sometimes in perpetuity, with a fine upon
succession or alienation; but at all events, for so long a period as to
invest the tenant with a real interest in the property which he
cultivates.
From the Venta, where we slept, to Tarragona, the road winds among
rugged hills, along the sea shore. I noticed many beautiful heaths by
the way side, but the soil is not rich enough to repay cultivation. At a
venta close by the sea, called Hospitalet, we stopped to breakfast. Soon
after, we entered the plain of Tarragona, almost vieing in fertility
with the huertas of the more southern provinces, and reached the city to
a late dinner.
I had expected much from the antiquities of Tarragona; but I confess
they disappointed me. They possess few of those features which strike or
delight the traveller who is not professedly an antiquarian. When a
Roman amphitheatre is shewn to me, I always think of the amphitheatre of
Nismes; if I look upon an aqueduct, I see placed beside it the Pont de
Gard. The remains of the amphitheatre are little more than visible; the
aqueduct, though fine, is certainly not comparable to that which I have
named; and the tower of Scipio is merely the tower of Scipio. I was
greatly surprised at the ignorance of the inhabitants respecting their
antiquities. The cicerone whom I first engaged, scarcely knew of their
existence; and one group of priests whom I addressed, and another group
of respectable looking men, could give me no information upon the
subject.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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