Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
A glance at Barcellona is sufficient to show, that we approach the
frontier. We no longer see a purely Spanish population. Spanish hats are
scarcely to be seen, nor is the mantilla altogether indispensible. In
the buildings too, we perceive a difference; the streets are wider, and
few of the houses are adorned with balconies. I thought too, but this
might be fancy, that I could perceive a different expression in the
countenances of the people. Of one thing I am certain, that although the
women of Barcellona have not perhaps the grace of the Andalusians; their
claims to beauty are stronger: their features are more regular, their
complexions are clearer, their hair less coarse, and their forms
slighter: still it must be admitted, that there is more witchery hid in
the eye of an Andalusian, than perhaps in all the separate charms of a
woman of Barcellona. No one, however, can walk along the streets,
without perceiving in the female population, sufficient evidence of
being no longer among a people exclusively Spanish. I found another
peculiarity in the aspect of the Barcellona population--a peculiarity
however, that refers only to the time I visited Barcellona. No caps were
to be seen: these, as well as grey hats, were forbidden, immediately
upon the revolution breaking out in France. For my own part, I continued
to wear my grey hat while in Barcellona, without being challenged; but I
have good reason to believe, that this forbearance arose from the
authorities knowing that I had the honour of being acquainted with the
Conde de España, the ruler, and dictator of Catalunia. But the strange,
and gaudy dress of the Catalunian peasantry is the most striking
peculiarity in the appearance of the Barcellona population: all wear
their red caps, which hang at least a foot down their backs; and with
their crimson girdles, and gaudy coloured woollen plaids, they give a
peculiar grotesqueness to the appearance of the Rambla--the principal
street of Barcellona--which is almost always crowded.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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