Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
The Conde de España is not very easy of access; he is seldom seen,
though his presence is always felt; his system of government is secret;
and in the province of Catalunia, it may be said to have come in place
of the inquisition,--with instruments as numerous and as masked, with
power as unanswerable, with measures as prompt, and sometimes as
unjustifiable, and with a bolder heart and a stronger head to direct the
machine. It was a mere chance whether I should be admitted to an
audience: indeed, no one in Barcellona knows, whether he be in the city
or not. The parade takes place before his residence, and the guards are
mounted at his gate every morning, but this is no proof that he is
within. The Conde was at home however; and the names of his Britannic
Majesty’s Consul, and English gentleman, were passed inward. We walked
into an anti-room where a Spanish general, and several other persons
were waiting. How long they might have preceded us I cannot tell, but in
a few minutes, we were informed that the Conde would see us; and we were
conducted through a long suite of magnificent apartments, and ushered by
an aide-de-camp, into a little mean dirty parlour, without a bit of
matting to cover the brick floor, the walls white washed, a wood fire
almost burnt out, and the furniture consisting of one small table, and
two or three chairs. There sat the Conde de España, writing, or, at
least, signing his name to a number of papers. He immediately rose, and
received us with the utmost curtesy, made us sit down, and asked me some
particulars of my journey, and in what state I had found Spain. I told
him, what I really believed to be true, that Spain was at that time, the
most tranquil country in Europe; and that I had no where found the
slightest indication of commotion. This reply was no doubt gratifying:
the Conde ordered wine and segars, and the conservation took a more
general turn. He spoke of France, and said he considered it hastening
towards republicanism. He then spoke of himself, his conduct, and his
enemies; and said, that as a private individual, he always acted justly,
and morally right; but as a public man, he clothed himself with a
garment of policy,--an ingenious, but not a new apology for the
commission of iniquity. I remained about a quarter of an hour; and when
I took leave, he did me the honour to offer me the freedom of the royal
box at the opera; and also to invite me to his country seat, where he
said he spent much of his time, for that to be respected, (he meant
feared) one must not be seen too often. The Conde appears to be about
fifty, he is rather under the middle size, and somewhat lusty; his head
and face are large, and his eyes expressive of much. One may read in
them, violent passions, penetration, reflection, and cunning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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