Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Before finally quitting Barcellona, I resolved to pay a visit to
Monserrat,--a place that has derived remarkable notoriety from the
singularity of its situation. I accordingly left Barcellona at the early
hour of four, in a galera, which passed within half a league of the foot
of the mountain. The country between Barcellona and Martorrel is the
same as I have described on my journey from Tarragona; and from
Martorrel to the foot of Monserrat, the land is divided between corn and
wine; it is every where populous, and every where exhibits proofs of
Catalunian industry. The approach to Monserrat from this side, is not
remarkably striking, owing to the elongated form of the mountain; but as
we approach nearer, its height, and singular conformation, become
sufficiently imposing. After quitting the galera, I walked to the small
village that lies at the foot of the mountain; and having got some
chocolate, and a guide, I began the ascent. A zig-zag path, of not less
than a league and a half, leads up the mountain to the convent, which is
not seen until at an abrupt turn it is discovered lying on a platform,
in a recess of the rocks which rise in perpendicular cliffs directly
behind it. The view from this platform is wild and imposing; towards the
north, a long line of snowy summits marks the Pyrennean boundary of the
Peninsula; towards Barcellona, the Mediterranean is seen beyond the rich
and diversified country that lies between the mountains and the sea;
while the mountain itself,--its lower part encircled by a belt of
wood,--its grotesque range of rocky peaks above, and its convent, and
hermitages, are not the least striking features of the landscape. In the
interior of the convent I saw little deserving of notice; the occupation
of it by the French, and other causes, have left it nearly a ruin; but
its ruins shew its former extent. The architecture of the building is
mixed; part of it is Gothic; while later parts were built in the time of
Julius II., and of Philip III. There were formerly seventy monks in the
convent; but now, it is inhabited by thirty only. I saw in the
refectory, a pilgrim who had come all the way from St. Jago in the
Asturias, and who was going to Rome. By the rules of the convent, a
pilgrim is fed three days within it. He was a man past the middle age,
and was rather reserved in his communications; not appearing willing to
tell any more than where he had come from, and whither he was going. His
habit was covered with scallops and little images.
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