Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Cadiz is less interesting than some others of the Spanish cities,
because it is less purely Spanish: the number of foreign mercantile
houses, and the concourse of strangers always to be seen in Cadiz, gives
to the population a more mixed and motley aspect than that which belongs
to the population of Seville, Madrid, Valencia, or indeed, of any
Spanish city--with the exception, perhaps, of Barcellona: and in the
mode of life, too, foreign usages have made great inroads upon the
exclusiveness and peculiarities of Spanish customs. The table is better
served in Cadiz than elsewhere, and strangers are more frequently seated
at it: the hours of repast too are later. At the table of a person in
the middle ranks of life, the puchero is seldom seen; and among the
upper classes there is an affectation of a preference of French wines,
sufficiently ridiculous in a city situated so near Xeres, and in a
country in which every little district produces its own peculiar, and
often exquisitely flavoured wine. But those very things that diminish,
in some degree, the interest of Cadiz in the eyes of a stranger, render
it the most attractive city in Spain, for one who desires to pass a few
months agreeably. There is, there, no shrinking from the eye of the
stranger; hospitality is understood in its true sense; and no one need
fear, in Cadiz, that the time may hang heavy on his hands.
Externally, Cadiz has its advantages and its drawbacks; the streets are
clean, and many of them sufficiently wide for the climate, which is
delightful; but which, in the latitude of thirty-six, cannot be
otherwise than hot; and there is no want of finely situated, commodious,
and even elegant houses, for those who can afford to live in them. But
the chief external charm of Cadiz, is found in its ramparts, and in the
delightful promenade which they afford. The day of my arrival in Cadiz,
as well as the day of my return to it from Xeres, were both too stormy
for the enjoyment of a promenade; but the day following, was calm and
beautiful; and I spent half the morning, and all the evening, upon the
ramparts. The views are of course marine views, and scarcely to be
exceeded in beauty, from the rampart fronting the bay, and Puerto de
Santa Maria. The bay itself, the opposite shore, the many towns that
sprinkle it, the distant Sierras of Xeres and Ronda, the vessels lying
at anchor in the harbour, the innumerable boats crossing the
ferry--fishing, or sailing, or rowing for pleasure--and the fine
irregular line of handsome white buildings that lie along the Alameda,
form altogether, a delightful and animated picture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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