Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
But Cadiz lies under this great disadvantage, that it is impossible to
leave the city, and walk or ride into the country; there is no country
in the immediate neighbourhood of Cadiz: the city occupies every rood of
the little Peninsula upon which it stands; and before one can get into
the fields, it is necessary either to travel along two or three leagues
of causeway, or to cross the bay to Port St. Mary. The rampart, the
squares, and the streets, are the only walks; and charming as the former
is, I think if I resided in Cadiz, I should soon long for the verdure of
the open fields, in place of the green sea; the shade of trees, in place
of the shadow of houses; and the song of birds, instead of the ocean’s
voice.
Whilst I remained in Cadiz, there was a fête and illumination one
evening, in honour, I think, of the queen’s accouchement. The streets
and squares, particularly the Plaza de San Antonio, were brilliantly
illuminated; and in this square, which is one of the paseos of Cadiz,
all the population was assembled from eight till eleven o’clock; and I
of course seized so favourable an opportunity of judging of those charms
which I had always heard spoken of as the peculiar distinction of “the
ladies” of this gay and voluptuous city. Horace, no bad judge of these
matters, celebrates the beauty of the women of Cadiz; and later and
better poets than Horace, speak in raptures of the charms of these fair
and frail ones. Whether it was, that so high authorities had their
influence upon my judgment, or that sun-light is less favourable to
Spanish beauty than the light of torches, blended with that of the
moon,--or that the women of Cadiz are really deserving of the praises
that have been lavished upon them, I will not pretend to determine; but
I must be candid enough to admit, that while I sat at the door of a
café, from which a strong light blazed across the piazza, and
scrutinized the passers by, I did see some splendid forms, and some
lustrous eyes,--some countenances, in short, that might remind one of
Gulnare. The women of Cadiz are, beyond question, the finest in Spain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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