Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
From this venta, there are two roads to Gibraltar; one, which leads to
Tariffa, about thirty-four miles distant,--the other, by a solitary
venta, considerably nearer. The master of the venta strongly urged us to
go by the latter; but having been expressly cautioned against this in
Cadiz, I resolved to keep to my original plan, and go to Tariffa; but,
in such cases, it is always wise to keep one’s counsel. Accordingly, I
pretended to be convinced by his reasoning; but the moment we left the
venta, I told the guide that I was resolved to go by Tariffa; and he,
although more disposed towards the shortest road than I relished,
promised that I should be obeyed.
For a short time after leaving the venta, there was some appearance of a
road; but it soon terminated, and we struck to the left, among wide
green slopes, thickly scattered with fine clumps of ilex, beneath which,
many herds of swine were feeding. We passed two or three mud cabins,
with a patch of cultivation round them; at the door of one of these, an
old man was seated upon a bundle of rushes, and a fine athletic young
man stood beside him leaning upon a long gun. The picture was striking;
but it is by persons like these, more perhaps than by regular banditti,
that the solitary traveller runs the risk of being robbed. Soon
afterwards a young man, habited something like a soldier in undress,
joined us: he said he was running away from Xeres, having been detected
in some contraband transaction, and that he was going to Tariffa. It is
never safe in Spain, to join company with strangers: this man and the
guide immediately began to differ as to the road; and the guide, after
some altercation, yielded to the other, whose good intentions I had
afterwards the strongest reasons for doubting.
The country through which we passed, after leaving the venta where we
breakfasted, was for the most part uncultivated; here and there, a
little corn land was to be seen; and I noticed one or two ploughs at
work: herds of cattle, horses, and sheep occasionally gave life to the
landscape; and now and then a man with his gun, ranged the brushwood, or
was seated upon a bank: but there were no houses, and no stationary
inhabitants: whoever we met seemed to be far from home; and every little
while, a monumental cross was seen by the way-side; I counted no fewer
than twenty-seven during the day’s journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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