From this point, the road descended into a deep and highly picturesque valley, crossing a fine clear torrent, and then ascending through a forest of aged cork trees. Here the air was filled with the perfume of aromatic plants, particularly the balm of Gilead, which grew every where around; and I also noticed abundance of rosemary, sweet marjorum, and many medicinal plants, of whose names I am ignorant, although I had no difficulty in recognizing their smells. From the next elevation, I obtained the first view of Gibraltar,--an object, that even if deprived of its localities, would possess an interest exclusively its own; for it is impossible that an Englishman travelling across the Peninsula, and first descrying this tower of strength rising between Africa and Europe, should not feel that he is an Englishman. Far from country and home, home lies before him; and he is not too prejudiced a man, who, in a moment like this, feels that there is a peculiar charm in an English voice, and puts spurs to his horse that he may the sooner hear its music. I stopped a few moments, however, upon the elevation, to enjoy the prospect: the calm, sun-shiny bay of Algesiras, lay below,--the blue bosom of the water chequered with the many vessels and their shadows; the rock of Gibraltar, part in sunshine, part in shade, rising out of the other side of the bay. Beyond the tongue of land that connected Gibraltar with the coast of Spain, were seen the lofty Sierras of Granada; while beyond the Streights, the horizon was bounded by the mountains of Morocco. But the pure air of the mountains had disposed me for breakfast, and I made haste to reach Algesiras, where I found a good inn and tolerable coffee. My muleteer having no passport for Gibraltar, he of course could not pass the Spanish lines, and I was therefore obliged to find another conveyance for Gibraltar; and while inquiries were making for horses, I took the opportunity of strolling through the town. Algesiras is charmingly situated at the foot of mountains, upon a little slope; and the sea washes the houses. The ruins of the ancient citadel, within which the Moors continued to defend themselves when they were driven from the town, are still visible. Just opposite to the town, and not a quarter of a mile from the shore, is the little island of Palomas; it is fortified, and commands the town, and the approach on that side. When I walked down to the harbour, I found the packet-boat for Ceuta getting under weigh. Ceuta, a Spanish possession on the African coast, is five leagues from Algesiras; and a packet sails twice every week: the passage seldom exceeds five or six hours. The wind was fair, and I was almost tempted to step into the boat, which would carry me to Africa to dinner. But Ceuta, I believe, is an uninteresting spot; and if one be desirous of visiting Africa, it is better to go to Tangiers, to which there are constant opportunities from Gibraltar.