Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
After leaving the galleries, I wished to ascend to the highest point of
the rock; but a sentry stopped me, telling me I could not be permitted
to go higher, without an order from the governor. But the day being
transcendantly beautiful, and, resolved upon a day’s ramble, I got out
of the sentinel’s sight, and leaving the road, scrambled in a direct
line towards the eastern point. Turning the corner of the declivities
fronting the east, I suddenly found myself in the neighbourhood of
eleven monkeys; they did not perceive me at first, nor, when they did,
was there any great alarm manifested among them. They turned round, sat
up, and looked at me; and after a few moments’ scrutiny, they wheeled
about, and scampered away, chattering, and looking behind them; and
disappeared round some projecting rocks. The monkeys are always to be
found on the side of the rock opposite to that upon which the wind
blows: they constantly shift their quarters with the wind.
It was a laborious ascent to reach the south-eastern summit of the rock,
which is one thousand five hundred and ninety-five feet above the
Mediterranean; but amply was the labour repaid: for my eye never
embraced a more magnificent prospect. Looking towards the east, the bold
coast of Granada stretched in a wide curve, ending in the dim mountains
that lie around Malaga. Withdrawing the eye from the Spanish coast, it
wandered over the calm Mediterranean, streaked like a summer lake, and
baring its trembling bosom to the sunbeams. Farther to the south, was
seen an indistinct line, stretching eastward; this was the coast of
Africa: and towards the west, this line grew more distinct, till, at
scarce three leagues across, it terminated in the dark high mountain of
Barbary--one of the Pillars of Hercules. Turning towards the north, lay
in unruffled tranquillity, the bay that separates Gibraltar from the
Spanish Main. The vessels at anchor were mirrored below; many little
boats were rowing about; and several mysticos and scampiavas had hung
out their enormous sails, to woo the light airs that came, and died upon
the summer sea. Beyond the bay, was the coast of Andalusia, seemingly
within a gun-shot; the town of Algesiras nestling at the head of the
bay, and in the hollow of the mountains that rose behind, dappled with
the lights and shadows that the few wandering clouds cast upon their
valleys and acclivities. Nor was the gigantic rock itself a picture of
no importance in this glorious view: its rugged and fearful precipices,
and deep ravines--a milk-white goat here and there standing upon a giddy
point--the sentinels far below, their arms glittering in the
sunshine--the verdure that covered the lower declivities, and fringed
the bay--these completed the picture: a picture that I think can never
pass from my memory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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