Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
After having spent some pleasant days at Gibraltar, I inquired
respecting conveyances to Malaga. I learnt that it was a two days’
journey on mule back; and that the character of the country between
Gibraltar and Malaga, was precisely the same as that which I had
travelled from Cadiz. Tempted the same afternoon by a fine breeze from
the west, and by an offer of a passage in a Spanish mystico, which the
captain assured me would sail at six next morning, and would be in
Malaga the same evening, I got all ready,--took out my passport and a
bill of health, and went to bed in the hope of sleeping next night in
Malaga. I gladly avail myself of this opportunity of mentioning the
unjustifiable exactions of the public offices in this British
possession. Throughout the whole of Spain, more than two pecetas (1_s._
8_d._) had never been demanded at any passport office; but at Gibraltar,
where it is difficult to understand upon what principle an English
subject should require permission of the English authorities to visit
Malaga,--I was charged a dollar. As well might an Englishman about to
visit Calais, be obliged to have the permission of Sir Richard Birnie.
At all events, the charge is extravagant, and therefore unjust; the
petty officer who signs his name at Gibraltar, and pockets the crown, is
not, like a consul in a foreign port, the representative of the British
government, and obliged to spend all, or more than all, that he
receives. In Gibraltar the governor is the representative of the
government; and the demand of a dollar from every Englishman who passes
through Gibraltar, can only be regarded as a robbery of British subjects
to support a sinecurist.
Looking from my window, about five next morning, I saw with dismay, that
the wind had increased almost to a storm, still from the west, but too
violent to allow any vessel to beat out of the bay; for it is a great
difficulty attending the navigation from Gibraltar, that the most
favourable wind for the Levant, is the most adverse for carrying a
vessel out of the bay. I had made up my mind to bear the delay, and be
contented with reading the English newspapers, and with an English
dinner in the hotel, when the master of the mystico sent to inform me
that the wind had so much abated as to permit him to beat out, and that
he was on the point of sailing. I immediately ran down to the harbour,
hired a boat, and was just in time to catch the mystico upon one of its
tacks. The vessel had been obliged to leave the harbour, because, after
gun-fire at five o’clock, the gates and harbour are shut, and nothing is
permitted to pass out or in.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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