Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
I consider myself to have had rather a narrow escape while at Malaga, in
a visit which I made to the ruins of the castle. The ruins of the
Moorish fortifications are of extraordinary extent; they reach from the
city to the summit of the hill that flanks it to the east,--a distance
not much less than a mile; and desirous of inspecting the ruins, as well
as of enjoying the views which I had no doubt were to be enjoyed from
the heights, I devoted an afternoon to this walk. As I ascended,
occasional gaps in the ruins discovered charming glimpses over the city,
the sea, and the mountains; and at one spot, where a half-fallen spiral
staircase leads to the summit of a round tower, whose ruins flank the
wall,--the whole magnificence of the prospect burst upon me. The city,
washed by the Mediterranean,--the fertile plain to the north of Malaga,
covered with gardens and orangeries, and sprinkled with villages and
convents, and the fine range of magnificent and curiously broken
mountains that environ that little plain;--the situation of Malaga
leaves nothing to desire. I had not yet ascended above half way,--and
the higher up, the more extensive are the ruins; the lower part being
occupied by fortifications, but the upper half of the hill being covered
with the remains of the castle. Soon after leaving the tower, I passed
three ruffian-looking men sitting under the wall playing cards; and
perhaps prudence ought to have whispered to me to return; but an
Englishman with difficulty persuades himself of the possibility of
violence in day-light; and the sun being above the horizon, I continued
my walk. Higher up, I found myself entirely enclosed among the ruins;
and having gone so far, and believing that I could be at no great
distance from the summit, I resolved not to return by the same road, but
to find some path that might lead me down the other side of the hill,
either towards the sea or the back of the city. I therefore continued
threading my way among the ruins. I had reached a very solitary spot,
entirely shut in by massive walls, when, passing within ten or twelve
yards of a low archway, scarcely two feet above the ground, I chanced to
turn my eye in that direction, and was startled by seeing the dark
countenances of two men peering from the mouth of it, their bodies being
concealed by the gloom within. All that I had heard and knew of the
character of the lowest class in Malaga, suddenly recurred to my mind; I
felt the full danger of my situation, and walking a few wide paces
farther, as if I had not observed them, till a fragment of the ruin was
fortunately intercepted between me and the arch, I sprung forward with
no tardy step; but not before a stealthy glance had shewn me the figure
of one man already half way between the arch and myself, and another on
the point of emerging from his lurking place. I have not the smallest
doubt, that if these men had been aware of my approach, or if, in the
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