Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
This venta may be taken as a fair specimen of travelling accommodation
in the southern and eastern provinces of Spain, in the year 1830.
Groping my way through a small court-yard, and a wide gateway, I found
myself in a long apartment; I do not know any word to express (a barn
on the ground-story), the floor earthen--the roof, a congregation of
beams and rafters--the walls, partly rough stone, as originally put
together; partly white-washed. The door, by which I had entered, was
nearly in the middle of the side wall, so that one-half of the apartment
lay to the right, and the other to the left. To the right, I saw a dim
file of mules stretching away into obscurity: on the left, at the
farther extremity of the apartment, a bright blaze from a fire kindled
on the floor, shewed me the way to the part appropriated to the human
guests! As I walked towards the fire, which was at a great distance, the
scene assumed a more picturesque and striking appearance: at a round
table not far from the fire, sat ten or twelve men, every one with his
little round Spanish hat and crimson girdle; and in every one’s hand a
long clasp knife, with which he fished, from time to time, a huge piece
of meat from an enormous brown dish that stood smoking in the centre of
the table--diffusing around the usual fragrance of a Spanish stew, in
which the prominent ingredients are oil and garlic. Over the blazing
fire hung an iron apparatus, from which depended a large iron pot,
containing something worthy the attention of a brown-cheeked,
dark-haired wench, who inspected it by the help of a light simply
contrived by a piece of wick being put into a small open vessel of oil;
and, after having ascertained the state of the stew (for this also was a
stew) she hung her lamp upon a nail affixed to a rafter over her head.
On the stone bench beyond the fire, sat two or three muleteers, who
seemed by their inactivity, to have already tasted the good things of
the venta; for one was manufacturing a cigar in the approved Spanish
mode, by rolling paper round a little tobacco: and the other had already
accomplished this task, and was enveloped in a cloud of smoke--and the
picture of the venta is completed, if we add two or three great lank
dogs standing at the table where the supper party was seated; and two or
three others lying in the neighbourhood of the fire. Such was the state
of the venta, when the gallera party arrived, to claim a share of its
hospitalities. The features of the scene were now greatly multiplied:
one of the party was seen kneeling at the fire, intent upon the
operation of chocolate-making--another was employed in heating a pot of
wine--and my occupation was, watching the progress towards boiling, of
some water meant to deluge the “fragrant herb.” All these preparations
being completed, the gallera party proposed enjoying their various
refreshments in company, adding to them, the fowl and sausages which had
been brought from Malaga.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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