Spanish America, Vol. 1 (of 2)Bonnycastle, Richard Henry, Sir
History
Spanish America, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Bonnycastle, Richard Henry, Sir
Latin America -- Description and travel; Latin America -- History
At the top of the gorge, is a small lake or pond, of which the
water never freezes; and at less than 700 feet distant from this on
each side, are the sources of the Cauca and the Magdalena. Goods
are often left in this place, because the muleteers will not run
the risk of quitting it between suns, and therefore return to take
them up the next morning. The distance from Popayan to La Plata
(the town on the Magdalena, where the journey terminates) is about
nineteen or twenty leagues, which generally occupies twenty or
twenty-two days to travel; but the time taken to pass the actual
ridge is about a day, and there are habitations, at intervals on
each side; not so the other road, which leads from Popayan, by
the mountains of Quindiu, between the cities, or rather towns of
Ibague and Carthago, in 4° 36ʹ north latitude; and is the most
difficult to scale, when taken in the sense of a road, of any in
the whole Cordillera, crossing a thick untenanted forest, which, in
the most favourable weather, is not passable under ten or twelve
days. No hut is to be seen, or any means of subsistence procured,
and the venturous traveler must take with him at least a monthʼs
provisions; as the sudden thaws and swellings of rivers render it
frequently impracticable to go forward or return. The highest point
of this pass is 11,499 feet above the level of the sea; and is
styled Garito de Paramo.
The path is not more than a foot and a half broad, and has, in
several points, the appearance of a gallery, whose surface has
been taken off, and the whole is bottomed with muddy clay; the
torrents which rush down the rocks, forming every here and there
narrow beds, from twenty to twenty-five feet in depth, along which
the passenger must work his way in the mud, encompassed by a wall
of rocks, covered with vegetation of luxuriant growth, which
renders these places nearly dark. Along these galleries, many of
which are a mile and a half in length, the oxen employed to carry
baggage, and whose feet are better adapted than those of mules,
for struggling through the tough and deep clay, can hardly force
their way. The meeting with other travellers, in such a situation,
is highly troublesome, as there is the greatest difficulty to
pass. The roots of the bamboos, studded with strong prickles,
projecting from the sides of the mountains, are among the other
inconveniences, combined with the necessity of crossing the icy
waters of the torrents, and of being deluged with the incessant
rains which prevail here.
The colonists, whose affairs oblige them to go by this route, are
carried in chairs on menʼs backs, by a set of people who are bred
to this business; and who are generally either creoles or mulattoes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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