Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Social life and customs
My wife is waiting for me. Unless we have previously arranged to meet
somewhere else, she is always at home to greet me at my return. It is
not proper for ladies to be alone in the streets of Constantinople
after sunset, and we both like to start the evening together. We tell
each other what we have done in the afternoon, we read the evening
papers and then we sit down to dinner. We have our evening meal early:
everybody dines early in Stamboul. When we are alone we have dinner
served in the drawing-room, on an old Italian carved wood table. It is
less formal and cosier. When dinner is finished the servants clear the
table. My wife sits on the couch with her sewing, I sit next to her in
an easy chair. We talk. It is peaceful and quiet. We feel our nerves
gradually relaxing from the strain of the day.
It is now evening. The dusk has fallen over Stamboul. Above, the purple
sky is getting darker and one by one the stars are lighting in the
firmament. Only one of our big windows is opened as it is quite cool
outside. From behind the lattices we see the breeze gently swaying the
branches of the plane trees bordering our street. Through the cleft
of a dark, narrow street which winds its way to the nearby sea we can
see the lights of some ships lying in the harbour. Just opposite us
the rambling building of the Sublime Porte is silent and dark, the
Government Departments are all closed. In the street below only a few
belated passers-by are hurrying home. At a distance the Mosque of
Santa Sophia raises its minarets high against the starlit vault of
Heaven, as in prayer, and the park of the Old Seraglio projects the
black silhouettes of its trees: oaks and cypresses which have witnessed
the splendours of the reign of Soliman the Magnificent. In the branches
of a nearby plane tree a flock of doves flutter and settle for the
coming night.
A calm oriental night is falling over the city. The darkness deepens
and the quiet increases. I look out from the window. In the streets,
a water seller is walking slowly, I can see dimly a graceful brass
vessel swinging from his shoulders. He stops before the house, and
in a plaintive velvety voice chants the merits of his cool water “as
sweet as frozen sherbet”--then goes on his way and disappears in the
blue night. At a distance we hear the watchman coming, knocking his
club on the pavement to mark the hour “toc--toc--toc--toe ...” He is
coming nearer, his beat takes him through our street. Now he stops: the
street is so quiet that we can hear him greeting someone: “Selam' u
aleykum--peace be with you ...” The newcomer tells him something.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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