Spons' Household Manual: A treasury of domestic receipts and a guide for home management
General
Spons' Household Manual: A treasury of domestic receipts and a guide for home management
Home economics
The conditions most favourable for the exclusive development of
these organisms have been learnt by long practice; but should these
conditions at any time fail to be observed, some other ferment,
incapable of producing the particular kind of ripening wished for,
may intrude itself. The chamber is then said to be “sick,” and has
sometimes to be temporarily abandoned.
Special members of the yeast and mould families are also largely
concerned in the ripening of certain cheeses, and their action is
very similar to that mentioned above. Roquefort and Pontgibaud
cheeses, for example, are ripened by _Penicillium glaucum_, or, in
other words, bread mould. These cheeses are kept as near as possible
to 32° F., not because so low a temperature is most favourable to the
development of the mould, but because other ferments, and especially
such as give rise to putrefaction (vibrios), are thereby checked.
From the low temperature and unsuitable soil the ripening is apt to
proceed so slowly that it is customary to expedite the fermentation
by a liberal inoculation of mouldy bread, and by piercing holes to
enable the plant to penetrate inwards.
In Gruyère cheese are found long cells constricted in the middle
like an elongated figure of 8. These cells multiply by splitting in
two at the constricted part, forming two individuals. A gelatinous
layer surrounds each cell when young, and also divides and envelopes
the new individuals. This, however, disappears with age, leaving the
cell naked. The action of this organism is to resolve any milk sugar
that may be present into alcohol, acetic acid, and carbonic acid,
and as this latter is a gas, it forms a number of small bubbles in
the cheese. Gruyère is a cooked cheese; for in order to hasten the
elimination of the whey, and enable the curd to be pressed in the
mould as quickly as possible, the curd is heated slowly, and with
constant stirring, to about 120° F. This requires considerable care,
for if the heating be too rapid, the grains formed are large, and
in the press flatten out and adhere to one another, and so clothe
the cheese with an impenetrable layer, through which the whey is
unable to escape. On the other hand, an undercooked curd is liable
to retain an excess of whey; and the evil of this is that too much
gas is given off by the fermentation of the sugar, and consequently,
instead of bubbles, long channels appear in the cheese, which
depreciate the value of the product. Again, as the ferment is killed
at a temperature very near 120° F. (varying a little with the acidity
or alkalinity of the curd), it is very possible to destroy it by
overheating, and then the cheese becomes dry, is difficult to mature,
and is said to be “dead.” Under any circumstances the ripening of
Gruyère cheese is a very slow process.
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