And so from one world-famous spot to another in that panorama of Southern loveliness, they made the tour of Sicily, and at Palermo took the steamer for Malaga. It was a sight to lift up any sorrowful spirit when Mildred went on deck in the early September morning, as the steamer lay at anchor before the beautiful white city, glowing in the roseate hues of the rising sun. High above them the cathedral seemed to stand as the protector of the town, surrounded by palaces, and as its guard, still higher, “On a lofty hill the castle of Gibralfaro Seemed to watch the town and bay.” The harbour, crowded with vessels of all nations, and the busy quays, gave signs of wealth and activity which the travellers had scarcely expected to find in benighted Spain. The blessed Mediterranean it is which would have given trade and wealth wherever its waves touched the shores, had man known how to preserve its gifts. It has given Malaga more than wealth; for it is one of the great health resorts of the South. It must be confessed, however, that what these blissful spots gain in climate, they, by the ignorance and indolence of their inhabitants, lose by neglect of the simplest elements of sanitary science. Aunt Janet had been a little doubtful of Spain; she feared they would have to “rough it” rather too much, having taken her impressions from Mr. Ford’s books, which, however accurate in some particulars, are too prejudiced against the _cosas de España_ in general to deal fairly with the manners and customs of this intensely interesting land. “Now for rancid oil, and garlic, and bull beef!” said she. “No more French cookery.” “Well, aunt, it can’t be worse than Sicily; and we have done fairly well there.” “I don’t know, dear. I fear we shall be devoured alive by the ‘light infantry’ of the country, unless we are poisoned straight off by their cooks. Besides, we don’t know any Spanish!” “Why, aunt, the courier declares I speak it very well indeed, and for the rest I expect French will serve us perfectly.” Their hotel was situated in the Alameda, and a glimpse of that pleasant resort revealed so much of the beauty of the Spanish ladies, of which they had heard with a little scepticism after their illusions had been dispelled as to the charms of the Italian fair sex, that they agreed the reports had not been exaggerated. The next day they started for Granada, which they reached two hours late, thus early making their acquaintance with the dilatoriness of Spanish railways. Mr. Crowe and Dr. Graves met them at the station, and welcomed them to their abode in the grounds of the Fairy Halls of Alhambra.