The account of his arrival at Ujiji, the scene of his first great success--the finding of Livingstone--is certainly characteristic, if not truly pathetic. “At noon of the 27th of May, the bright waters of the Tanganyika broke upon the view, and compelled me,” says Stanley, “to linger admiringly for a while, as I did on the day I first beheld them. By 3 P. M. we were in Ujiji. Muini, Mohammed bin Gharib, Sultan bin Kassim, and Khamis the Baluch, greeted me kindly. Mohammed bin Sali was dead. Nothing was changed much, except the ever-changing mud tembés of the Arabs. The square or plaza where I met David Livingstone in November, 1871, is now occupied by large tembés. The house where he and I lived has long ago been burnt down, and in its place there remain only a few embers and a hideous void. The lake expands with the same grand beauty before the eyes as we stand in the market place. The opposite mountains of Goma have the same blue-black color, for they are everlasting, and the Liuché River continues its course as brown as ever just east and south of Ujiji. The surf is still as restless, and the sun as bright; the sky retains its glorious azure, and the palms all their beauty; but the grand old hero, whose presence once filled Ujiji with such absorbing interest for me was gone!” [Illustration] CHAPTER XXII. WESTWARD ALONG THE CONGO TO THE ATLANTIC. Surveys Lake Tanganyika -- Settles the Question of the River Luguka -- An Outbreak of Small-pox and Fever in Ujiji -- Causes Stanley to Depart -- Pushes his way along the Right Bank of the Lualala to the Nyangwe -- Overland Through Uregga -- Brought to a Stand-still by an Impenetrable Forest -- Crosses over to the Left Bank -- Northeast Uskusa -- Dense Jungles -- Opposed and Harassed by Hostile Savages -- Assailed Night and Day -- The Progress of the Expedition almost Hopeless -- Deserted by Forty of his Porters -- Takes to the River as the only Chance to Escape -- Pass the Cataracts by Cutting a Road through Thirteen Miles of Dense Forest for the Passage of the _Lady Alice_ and the Canoes -- Almost Incessantly Fighting the Savages -- Threatened with Starvation -- Three Days without Food -- Meet with a Friendly Tribe with whom they Barter for Supplies -- Many Falls and Furious Rapids -- Again Attacked by a more Warlike Tribe, armed with Firearms -- Almost Starved and Worn-Out with Fatigue, reaches Isangila -- Leaves the River -- Terrible Sufferings of his People -- Relief from Embomma -- Reach Embomma -- Kabinda and Londa -- Sail for Cape of Good Hope -- Thence Return by Steamer to Zanzibar -- Close of the Expedition.