So we paddled back to Oxford, talking all the way of indifferent
subjects, of England and our English villages, and enjoying the peaceful
greenness of the trees and banks. It was half-past six when we got to
Salter's barge, and I walked with Ida as far as the Randolph. Then I
returned to college, feeling very much like an undetected sheep-stealer,
and had a furtive sort of dinner served up in my own room. Next morning,
I confess it was with a sigh of relief that Annie and I saw Ida Van
Rensselaer start from the station _en route_ for Liverpool. It was quite
a fortnight before I could face my own bulldogs unabashed, and I bowed
with a wan and guilty smile upon my face whenever any one of those
twelve undergraduates capped me in the High till the end of term. I
believe they never missed an opportunity of meeting me if they saw a
chance open. I was glad indeed when long vacation came to ease me of my
office and my troubles.
II.
Congress Hall in Saratoga is really one of the most comfortable hotels
at which I ever stopped. Of course it holds a thousand guests, and
covers an unknown extent of area: it measures its passages by the mile
and its carpets by the acre. All that goes unsaid, for it is a big
American hotel; but it is also a very pleasant and luxurious one, even
for America. I was not sorry, on the second of July, to find myself
comfortably quartered (by elevator) in room No. 547 on the fifth floor,
with a gay look-out on Broadway and the Columbia Spring. After ten days
of dismal rolling on the mid-Atlantic, and a week of hurry and bustle in
New York, I found it extremely delightful to sit down at my ease in
summer quarters, on a broad balcony overlooking the leafy promenade, to
sip my iced cobbler like a prince, and to watch that strange, new, and
wonderfully holiday life which was unfolding itself before my eyes. Such
a phantasmagoria of brightly-dressed women in light but costly silks, of
lounging young men in tweed suits and panama hats, of sulkies,
carriages, trotting horses, string bands, ice-creams, effervescing
drinks, cool fruits, green trees, waving bunting, lilac blossoms, roses,
and golden sunshine I had never seen till then, and shall never see
again, I doubt me, until I can pay a second visit to Saratoga. It was a
midsummer saturnalia of strawberries and acacia flowers, gone mad with
excessive mint julep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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