Straw Hats: Their history and manufactureInwards, Harry
History
Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture
Inwards, Harry
Hats; Straw industries
This custom of bleaching, in a patriarchal way in one’s own tent,
brought out considerable inventiveness on the part of go-ahead
manufacturers, and it was no uncommon thing for some fresh development
of bleaching, on one or another plait, to establish the reputation
of a manufacturer, who, until his secret leaked out, endeavoured to
exploit to the full the value of his superior article. But this kind
of bleaching only cleaned and purified, it did not materially alter
the natural condition of the article bleached. In the first place
manufacturers were not laboratory chemists, and it was the efforts of
the Italians, the producers of the plait which was supplanting the
British product, that gave birth to a chemical bleach, which for some
time was unrivalled in England. For some years the bleached Italian
Pedal of Messrs. Burgisser & Co., of Florence, had no superior, and
was for a long period renowned for the purity and beauty of its
colour process. But the secret subsequently leaked out, and bleaching
establishments in this country soon acquired them, and it was not long
before the results obtained here compared favourably with the Italian.
For some years this bleach, which not only cleansed and purified the
straw, but also changed its actual tone by bringing more into colour
line the straws of darker hue, was accepted by the world as the best
possible; and one may say that, although later developments have
considerably widened the scope of operations, the results of this
period, which may be called the intermediate cycle of straw bleaching,
were in their way quite equal to any now achieved. The only drawback
to this bleach was that really inferior coloured plait could not be
made serviceable for white. In the case of chip splints or in the case
of cornstalks, only the best and clearest of either of these had been
used for plaits for bleaching. This necessitated keeping two stocks
of plait, for although the best coloured plait could be dyed black
or other shade if necessary, the bad coloured straws could not be
bleached, and further, one always had to pay more for the best coloured
goods, which although to some extent this is even now the case,
owing to the great possibilities opened up by the present bleaching
processes, there is not the wide difference in price there used to be.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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