Straw Hats: Their history and manufactureInwards, Harry
History
Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture
Inwards, Harry
Hats; Straw industries
lasted in use for the lowest price goods until spirit polish became
a reasonable price. The glue polish often smelt very nasty, and was
always badly affected by a humid warm atmosphere. During the past few
years when so many varieties of fibre have been utilized for making
plaits, all kinds of polishing _media_ have been experimented with,
even the household bees’ wax and turpentine has not been left out in
the cold, but those that have made any lasting mark on the making of a
straw hat are all of them in some way combinations of gums and spirit.
The rapid evaporation of any liquid put on a blocked hat is an absolute
necessity, it must also not be able in any way to soften the gelatine
or other stiffening material, and it must leave a desired gloss on
the hat without being glassy or “fatty” looking. Further, it must not
materially harden the fibres. Some plaits are required quite bright;
for these ordinary straw hat polish is correct; others are wanted with
an “egg shell” shine, these are provided for in one or the other of the
“Lustres” and “Silk Finishes” that are to be obtained. In fact, to-day
there is no material of which hats are made that cannot be properly
polished. The last advantage of the spirit polish is that it gives
a slight water proofing to the ladies’ hat, and the mention of that
brings up the question of the waterproofing of men’s boaters. A boater
is generally made of rustic plait of which the saw-like edges lapping
over each other form a surface similar to a tiled roof, and if it were
possible to sew the plait with the serrations as regular as tiling,
the result would be showerproof, but such regularity is impossible,
and in order to make this most useful hat still more serviceable,
one or two patents have been taken out in the direction of making it
absolutely waterproof. As far as one can gather in the trade, the only
method of rendering straw hats rainproof now extensively used is that
known as the “Cravenette.” After the “shell” of the boater is sewn
and stiffened, a special powder is applied carefully over the entire
surface of the hat, after which a spray of the patent liquid is made
to evenly and thinly cover the powder causing it to dissolve and form
the waterproofing medium. After drying the hat is blocked in the usual
manner, and when done, only an expert can tell from sight that the hat
has been treated, as the colour is in no way deteriorated, nor are the
fibres of the straw changed in any manner.
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