consisted of a fine iron wire, of which it was necessary to have the “temper” even and ductile, so that when once bent there would be no resilience, or “springing,” as it was known to straw workers. Parallel to and all round the wire, which thus formed a core, were varying numbers, according to the thickness ultimately required, of strands of cotton. Around this was twisted the silk fibres, which at the same time kept all in position, and made a glossy exterior to the wire. In some qualities the silk laid so thickly as to show no break, while others according to value, showed varying spaces between the silk spirals; others of the cheapest qualities were entirely of cotton inside and outside. The advantage of this cushion-like pad around the wire was that stitches could be taken through it, and if affixed to the hat or bonnet with a “slip-stitch,” no trace of the stitching could be seen. The ladies’ hat trade also uses another variety of wire known as “miniature.” This is wire of similar gauge to the “silk,” but it has no padding, and consists solely of the metal and a silk or cotton yarn covering. In putting this into or on any hat, it is, of course, necessary to sew over and over as the closeness of the cover does not permit of any needle penetration. In some kinds of hats of which the brims are required hard and straight edged, steel wires of watch spring-like temper are used, and in others strengthening and shaping are assisted by strands of cane, cut into round strips, of different gauges for various kinds of work. When the wiring of hats for female wear became universal, machinery was introduced to put the wires at the edges of the brims, but this was done only to hats of the lower grades, because the stitch was very visible. Mention has been made of the tab or ticket attached to the hat by the “finisher.” This is primarily, in fact absolutely, for purposes of reference; the shape number, according to the manufacturer’s registry, is written on it before dispatch, together with any other special markings required by the purchaser, but almost every wholesale distributing house in Paris, London, New York, etc., etc., has some distinctive ticket. This generally bears a trade mark, crest, or other sign peculiar to the house in question, and may be of any colour; even black, with gold or silver printing, has been used, and as they vary in marks and colours, so they vary in size, from, say, 3/4 in. wide and 2 in. long, to even 2 in. wide to 4 in. long. Their shapes are very numerous, rhomboids ellipses, circles, pentagons, conic sections, parallelograms, half-moons, stars, and all other geometric-like forms may be found in ticket shapes, but the major part of those used partake of a “sweep” that has some conformity with the outline of the hat or bonnet.