Straw Hats: Their history and manufactureInwards, Harry
History
Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture
Inwards, Harry
Hats; Straw industries
The most recent development for ensuring the comfortable wear of the
hardest boater is that of an American inventor. Although the making
of straw hats from plait has been an established industry in the
United States for at least half a century, and the amazing increase of
the trade has been phenomenal, yet up to the present the name of an
American has not been written very prominently on the pages of straw
trade industry. It is true that the first machine to sew plait was the
product of an American firm, but, it was not really successful until it
had been altered and adapted by a Luton engineer; it is also true that
Mr. Bodsworth, an American, introduced a straw sewing machine, but as
previously stated, this was not a striking success, and although at the
present time the principal machine in the trade is made by an American
firm, it is the result of a Briton’s invention. And, therefore, it is
with pleasure that in this record of the trade a real invention, which
promises to be of the highest value to the boater trade, can be laid to
the credit of a citizen of the United States. Mr. Herbert L. Moses, of
Baltimore, has patented a device for attachment just inside the head
entry of a boater which consists of a floating, flexible band, held
in position about 1/8 of an inch from the hat by a series of stitches
at about half an inch intervals all round the crown. The principle is
that the stitches of cotton take the place of the spokes of a wheel
running inside another wheel, where a thrust in one part is compensated
for by a relaxation of the other parts. Over this is sewn the leather
sweat-band, or head lining of any other nature, attached to the hat in
the usual manner. The necessary machinery for the insertion of this
flexible _conformateur_, for that is actually what it amounts to, is
provided by means of mechanical attachments to any suitable sewing
machine. These attachments form the subject of another patent by the
same inventor, who has assigned his rights to Messrs. M. S. Levy &
Sons, of Baltimore, U.S.A. The peculiar features of this patent are,
first, the ease of fit conveyed to the wearer of the hat, and, second,
the great yield given by the device obviates to the utmost extent
the need for small intermediate sizes of the hats, for fitting the
many-shaped heads of customers.
Co-eval with the boater, and perhaps even a little earlier, was the
“Galatea” or “Jack Tar” for boys. This hat was founded on the shape of
the “Sinnett” rustic hat worn by sailors in the Navy for so many years.
The model was in use at the end of the eighteenth century (as pictures
of Lord Nelson’s sea fights clearly demonstrate) made both in straw and
in tarpaulin. It was quickly adopted for boy’s wear, and for many years
formed their summer hat. No boy could go to the seaside without one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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