Bamboo, 18 Bast, 3, 35 Black Forest, claims of, 6 Bleaching, history, 60 ---- methods, 60, 62, 63 Blocking by hand, history, 93 ---- tools, 93, 94, 98 ---- methods, 96, 104 ---- by machine, history, 100 ---- ---- various machines, 101, 102, 106, 108 Blockmaking, history, 66 ---- method, 67 ---- woods used, 69 ---- of plaster, 69 Bonnet, 5 British straw plaits, 11, 15, 18 ---- ---- hats, 6, 9 Cesare Cantu, 9 Chinese plaits, 19 Compo, stiffening, 91 Cotton plaits, 18 Coryat’s crudities, 10 Dyeing, history, 52 ---- methods, 53, 57, 58 ---- plant, 54 Enamelling split, 91 Etruscans and Etruria, 3 Fastolfe, Sir John, 6 Fiesole, woven plait, 30 Finishing, 111 Franks, the, 3 Gerard, 3 Greeks, the, 3 Hemp for plaits, 18, 33 Hera, hat of, 3 Hood hats, preparation, 37 ---- ----, method of making, 38 ---- ----, Bankok, 42 ---- ----, Bowen, 41 ---- ----, Brazilian, 42-44 ---- ----, chip, 42 ---- ----, Curaçoa, 41 ---- ----, hemp, 42 ---- ----, Hinoki, 41 ---- ----, Java, 41 ---- ----, Leghorn, 14, 71 ---- ----, Manila, 42 ---- ----, Panama, 36 ---- ----, paper, 42 ---- ----, raffia, 43 ---- ----, rush, 42 ---- ----, Yedda, 43 Horsehair plaits, 18 Italian plaits, 10, 14 Japanese plaits, 19 Kausia, 2 La Croix, 3 “La dame au chapeau de Poil,” 8 Leathers for lining, 119 Leghorn, 13 Lining hats, 115 Machines, sewing, 21, 22, 23 ----, blocking, 24 ----, plaiting, 49 Machines, milling, 82 Mary, Queen of Scots, 10 Mercury, hat of, 3 Milan or Pedale, 19 Oiling chip hats, 112 Oldmixon, 11 Pausanias, 3 Penelope, hat of, 4 Pepys, 7 Petasus, 2 Plaits, bamboo, 18 ----, bast, 35 ----, cotton, 18 ----, hemp, 18 ----, horsehair, 18 ----, raffia, 18 ----, rush, 35 ----, rye straw, 7, 14 ----, silk, 18 ----, sinnet, 35, 112 ----, Tuscan, 14 ----, wheat straw, 14 ----, wood shavings, 18 ----, yedda, 35 Plaitters, 28, 29 Plaitting centres: Belgium, 30 China, 19 Dunstable, 15 Essex, 15 Hemel Hempstead, 15 Japan, 19 Panama, 36 Ripon (Yorks), 15 Saxony, 33 Switzerland, 18 ---- machines, 49 ---- methods, 27, 30, 32, 45 Poetical allusions: Ben Jonson, 7 Gay, 9 Shakespeare, 7 Spenser, 6 Thynne, 6 Virgil, 5 Polishing, 112 Pompeii, 4 Praxiteles, 3 Preparation of straws, 25 ---- of chip, 33 Romans, the early, 3 Rubens, Peter Paul, 8 Rye straw, 7, 14