Studies in the Psychology of Sex, Volume 4: Sexual Selection In ManEllis, Havelock
Science
Studies in the Psychology of Sex, Volume 4: Sexual Selection In Man
Ellis, Havelock
Sex; Sex (Psychology)
"Through all the middle ages down to Dürer and Cranach," quite
truly remarks Laura Marholm (as quoted by I. Bloch, _Beiträge zur
Ætiologie der Psychopathia Sexualis_, Teil I, p. 154), "we find a
very peculiar type which has falsely been regarded as one of
merely ascetic character. It represents quiet, peaceful, and
cheerful faces, full of innocence; tall, slender, young figures;
the shoulders still scanty; the breasts small, with slender legs
beneath their garments; and round the upper part of the body
clothing that is tight almost to the point of constriction. The
waist comes just under the bosom, and from this point the broad
skirts in folds give to the most feminine part of the feminine
body full and absolutely unhampered power of movement and
expansion. The womanly belly even in saints and virgins is very
pronounced in the carriage of the body and clearly protuberant
beneath the clothing. It is the maternal function, in sacred and
profane figures alike, which marks the whole type--indeed, the
whole conception--of woman." For a brief period this fashion
reappeared in the eighteenth century, and women wore pads and
other devices to increase the size of the abdomen.
With the Renaissance this ideal of beauty disappeared from art. But in
real life we still seem to trace its survival in the fashion for that
class of garments which involved an immense amount of expansion below the
waist and secured such expansion by the use of whalebone hoops and similar
devices. The Elizabethan farthingale was such a garment. This was
originally a Spanish invention, as indicated by the name (from
_verdugardo_, provided with hoops), and reached England through France. We
find the fashion at its most extreme point in the fashionable dress of
Spain in the seventeenth century, such as it has been immortalized by
Velasquez. In England hoops died out during the reign of George III but
were revived for a time, half a century later, in the Victorian
crinoline.[147]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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