Studies in the South and West, with Comments on CanadaWarner, Charles Dudley
History
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada
Warner, Charles Dudley
Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Early on the morning of the 12th of April we crossed the river to the
lower landing of the Memphis and Little Rock Railway, the upper landing
being inaccessible on account of the high water. It was a delicious
spring morning, the foliage, half unfolded, was in its first flush of
green, and as we steamed down the stream the town, on bluffs forty feet
high, was seen to have a noble situation. All the opposite country for
forty miles from the river was afloat, and presented the appearance of
a vast swamp, not altogether unpleasing in its fresh dress of green. For
forty miles, to Madison, the road ran upon an embankment just above the
flood; at intervals were poor shanties and little cultivated patches,
but shanties, corn patches, and trees all stood in the water. The
inhabitants, the majority colored, seemed of the sort to be content with
half-amphibious lives. Before we reached Madison and crossed St. Francis
River we ran through a streak of gravel. Forest City, at the crossing of
the Iron Mountain Railway, turned out to be not exactly a city, in the
Eastern meaning of the word, but a considerable collection of
houses, with a large hotel. It seemed, so far in the wilderness, an
irresponsible sort of place, and the crowd at the station were in
a festive, hilarious mood. This was heightened by the playing of a
travelling band which we carried with us in the second-class car, and
which good-naturedly unlimbered at the stations. It consisted of a
colored bass-viol, violin, and guitar, and a white cornet. On the way
the negro population were in the majority, all the residences were
shabby shanties, and the moving public on the trains and about the
stations had not profited by the example of the commercial travellers,
who are the only smartly dressed people one sees in these regions.
A young girl who got into the car here told me that she came from
Marianna, a town to the south, on the Languille River, and she seemed
to regard it as a central place. At Brinkley we crossed the St. Louis,
Arkansas, and Texas road, ran through more swamps to the Cache River,
after which there was prairie and bottom-land, and at De Valle’s Bluff
we came to the White River. There is no doubt that this country is
well watered. After White River fine reaches of prairie-land were
encountered—in fact, a good deal of prairie and oak timber. Much of
this prairie had once been cultivated to cotton, but was now turned to
grazing, and dotted with cattle. A place named Prairie Centre had been
abandoned; indeed, we passed a good many abandoned houses before we
reached Carlisle and the Galloway. Lonoke is one of the villages of
rather mean appearance, but important enough to be talked about and
visited by the five aspirants for the gubernatorial nomination, who were
travelling about together, each one trying to convince the people that
the other four were unworthy the office. This is lowland Arkansas,
supporting a few rude villages, inhabited by negroes and unambitious
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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