Studies in the South and West, with Comments on CanadaWarner, Charles Dudley
History
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada
Warner, Charles Dudley
Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
We drove from Pineville to Cumberland Gap, thirteen miles, over the now
neglected Wilderness road, the two mules of the wagon unable to pull
us faster than two miles an hour. The road had every variety of badness
conceivable—loose stones, ledges of rock, bowlders, sloughs, holes,
mud, sand, deep fords. We crossed and followed up Clear Creek (a muddy
stream) over Log Mountain (full of coal) to Canon Creek. Settlements
were few—only occasional poor shanties. Climbing over another ridge, we
reached the Yellow Creek Valley, through which the Yellow Creek meanders
in sand. This whole valley, lying very prettily among the mountains, has
a bad name for “difficulties.” The hills about, on the sides and tops of
which are ragged little farms, and the valley itself, still contain some
lawless people. We looked with some interest at the Turner house, where
a sheriff was killed a year ago, at a place where a “severe” man fired
into a wagon-load of people and shot a woman, and at other places where
in recent times differences of opinion had been settled by the revolver.
This sort of thing is, however, practically over. This valley, close to
Cumberland Gap, is the site of the great city, already plotted, which
the English company are to build as soon as the tunnel is completed.
It is called Middleborough, and the streets are being graded and
preparations made for building furnaces. The north side of Cumberland
Mountain, like the south side of Pine, is a conglomerate, covered with
superb oak and chestnut trees. We climbed up to the mountain over
a winding road of ledges, bowlders, and deep gullies, rising to an
extended pleasing prospect of mountains and valleys. The pass has a
historic interest, not only as the ancient highway, but as the path of
armies in the Civil War. It is narrow, a deep road between overhanging
rocks. It is easily defended. A light bridge thrown over the road,
leading to rifle-pits and breastworks on the north side, remains to
attest the warlike occupation. Above, on the bald highest rocky head on
the north, guns were planted to command the pass. Two or three houses, a
blacksmith’s shop, a drinking tavern, behind which on the rocks four men
were playing old sledge, made up the sum of its human attractions as we
saw it. Just here in the pass Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia touch
each other. Virginia inserts a narrow wedge between the other two.
On our way down the wild and picturesque road we crossed the State of
Virginia and went to the new English hotel in Tennessee. We passed a
magnificent spring, which sends a torrent of water into the valley, and
turns a great millwheel—a picture in its green setting—saw the opening
of the tunnel with its shops and machinery, noted the few houses and
company stores of the new settlement, climbed the hill to the pretty
hotel, and sat down on the piazza to look at the scene. The view is
a striking one. The valley through which the Powell River runs is
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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