Studies of Travel: GreeceFreeman, Edward A. (Edward Augustus)
History
Studies of Travel: Greece
Freeman, Edward A. (Edward Augustus)
Greece -- Description and travel
The island of Patroklos is the last of the series of capes and islands
between Peiraieus and Sounion. All have lost their names, unless any
one takes _Phaura_ and _Phleua_ to be forms of the same name. All the
rest have descriptive names ending in νησί--the diminutive form, which,
according to rule in modern Greek, has supplanted the older νῆσος--just
as along our own shores they might end in _holm_ or _ey_. We turn round
the last point, and now--
Σούνιον ἱρὸν ἀφικόμεθ’, ἄκρον Ἀθηνῶν.
A sceptical thought will flash across the mind. Ought we not to read
Ἀθήνης for Ἀθηνῶν? But if we stifle the thought, we have again another
witness to the way in which all Attica had even in Homeric times
already become Athens. There is the little bay fenced in by the height,
crowned by the white columns, which gives the cape its modern, its
Italian, name. The name is well applied; Sounion is before all things
the Cape of the Columns. The pure white which their marble still keeps
is striking to the eye which has been for some time accustomed to the
yellowish brownish hue of the standing columns of Athens. We say the
standing columns, because those columns of the Parthenôn which have
been thrown down are as white as those on Sounion. But for this last
fact, it would be easy to account for the difference in the hue of the
columns by the difference between the pure sea-air of Sounion and the
air of an akropolis rising above a great city. Only here comes in the
difficulty which is suggested by the whiteness of the fallen columns
at Athens. Either the discolouring of the columns which are still
standing has happened since Morosini’s siege, or else the columns that
are overthrown have regained their whiteness since their fall. We do
not pretend to explain the difficulty; we only state it. All that we
are concerned with is the striking effect of the white marble of the
columns on Sounion as contrasted either with the discoloured columns
of the Parthenôn, or with the primitive columns of rougher stone which
were covered with some kind of plaster from the beginning. The actual
material of the columns of Sounion is something intermediate between
the two. It is marble, but marble from the neighbouring hills, much
less fine than the Pentelic marble of the Parthenôn. Another point at
once strikes the eye. Thirteen architectural objects stand up, but
it is soon seen that only twelve are of the usual shape of columns.
What is the thirteenth? It looks like a square pier, such as we should
expect to find inside a basilica at Lucca, but not outside a temple
at Sounion. The appearance is puzzling until we actually reach the
site of the temple and there carefully spell out the ground plan.
But before we do this two other remains have to be studied. Sounion,
besides being a holy place, was also a fortress. When the news of the
overthrow at Syracuse came to Athens, when every means was used to prop
up the tottering commonwealth, one means of defence that was taken was
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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