Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British Somaliland — John Shaqi
Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British SomalilandRayne, Henry A.
History
Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British Somaliland
Rayne, Henry A.
British Somaliland
From Basra come, in addition to the dates, grain, carpets, and
sweetmeats, the latter being the well-known Turkish delight. The
carpets are disappointing, and it is to be feared that, though
they actually come from Basra, the majority are made in Europe. I
have only been able to secure one drugget of undoubtedly eastern
manufacture, but it is so fiercely coloured that it will swear
at everything in a civilised room. In the old days real, genuine
carpets found their way here from Basra, and other ports. I have
seen one such, though over fifty years of age, whose colours are as
bright and fresh now as on the day it was made.
The dhows bring all sorts of delightful things to gladden the heart
of the European collector. I picked up two lovely old brass-bound
chests made from a rich black wood, finely carved by a delicate
hand. None of your barbarous eastern designs. I have seen many old
chests, but these of mine are, in my opinion, incomparable. They
are to me a perfect joy, but can only be described by an artist,
and I am not one. Sometimes I turn the massive brass key of one,
and throw open the lid, when the faintest and most delicate smell
of incense steals forth to tell how, long before these boxes came
into my hands, they were used by Arab ladies to store their delicate
silks and fripperies. What is their history? I know not. I was lucky
to acquire them, for the old Arab families rarely part with such
heirlooms, for heirlooms they are, or were.
And then, sometimes, one finds the most wonderful old pottery.
Plates that the old Arab grandmothers, years ago, hung upon their
walls for ornament, and, incidentally, to prove their very good
taste. That these people do have good taste, and some cultivation,
is shown by their high appreciation of such articles, all of which
came to our shores in the dhow holds. Who dares to say that our
commerce has not its spice of romance?
Of our exports skins are the most important. Horned cattle come
next. From Abyssinia has been known to come, in one consignment,
ivory, coffee, and civet. The coffee is from Harrar; famous for
its long berry and delicate flavour. For the latter quality I can
vouch. My cook buys the berries at eightpence the pound and has
them roasted and ground by a woman expert in the town. Gums and
frankincense, gathered from the wild trees, are also valuable
products that find their way hither in small parcels, hidden among
the camel loads of grain and skins. Large caravans of the "ships
of the desert" enter the town daily, and many are the stories of
"loots" and wild doings they report of the hinterland through
which they have passed. With the exception of a little of the
coffee, incense, ghee (rancid butter), and grain, this latter from
Abyssinia, all they bring goes to the dhows for export.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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