Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British SomalilandRayne, Henry A.
History
Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British Somaliland
Rayne, Henry A.
British Somaliland
When a dhow wishes to fit out the following is the procedure. The
captain--who, like the majority of his class, is generally up to
his neck in debt--waits on a pearl buyer to ask for an advance. The
latter makes inquiries as to the size of the dhow, the crew, and
other particulars. These completed to his satisfaction he issues
supplies of rice, dates, and other food, with perhaps a dash in the
way of solid cash, and in return the nachoda agrees that the buyer
will participate in the profits of the dhow over a given period.
The arrangement is generally thus: to the buyer, or financier, the
return of all moneys expended, and after that one third of what
remains; the remaining two thirds are divided equally between the
captain on the one hand and the crew on the other.
All preliminaries arranged the dhow puts to sea. There are no
sleeping quarters provided for the crew, who sleep as best they can.
But what does that matter in a climate where man for choice always
sleeps in the open air, with the sky for roof. Cooking is done over
a wood fire burning in an old barrel filled with mud or sand. When
the pearling ground is reached the dhow is anchored from time to
time and the canoe lowered. Into it descend a couple of divers armed
with their nostril-closing devices, and the paraffin-tin with the
glass bottom. One of the men presses this latter about an inch below
the surface of the water, keeping his head inside the tin. The glass
gives a clear unruffled surface through which he can see the bottom
of the sea, on which he keeps a sharp look out for shells, or likely
ledges. Should his trained eye sight anything, a motion of his hand
to the other man, who is gently paddling, brings the canoe to a
standstill. The diver adjusts his nose-iron, stands up and dives.
Down, down, down he goes from ten to fifteen times the depth of
water that could be measured between the tips of his fingers--from
right hand to left--when the arms are extended at right angles to
the body; for it is thus the divers measure depth.
With a knife he quickly severs three pearl oysters from the rock,
arranging them one under the left arm, one in the left hand, and one
in the right palm, so that it will not interfere with the raising
stroke of his arm, as he strikes out for the surface. Then up he
comes, bringing with him what one diver graphically described to me
as, "God alone knows." He may have found a pearl worth thousands of
rupees; he may have two good pearls; he may have three bad ones, or,
as often happens, he may have no pearls at all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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