Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British SomalilandRayne, Henry A.
History
Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British Somaliland
Rayne, Henry A.
British Somaliland
At six o'clock we halt at a well for ten minutes to give our mule a
drink. This is last water before reaching our baggage camels. Riding
camels may not be ridden for some time after they have drunk water.
On from the wells until eight o'clock, when we halt for a cup of tea
and a biscuit, overhaul the gear and give the camels an hour's rest.
From nine until midnight we trot through the moonlight, passing many
caravans travelling as we, at night; nothing can cross this plain
when the sun is high. From twelve to one another halt, then up to
catch our first glimpse of the hills to which we go. The caravans
hail us as we pass, "Salaam, aleikum!" (Peace be on you!) To which
we reply, "Wa aleikim, Salaam!" (And on you be peace!)
I am shown the spot where a policeman died of thirst, and another
where a Midgan fell behind the caravan he was accompanying, and
likewise perished. From four to five we halt once more, and, taking
water from our well-filled chaguls (canvas water-bags), make a cup
of sorely needed tea. Day is breaking so we must not loiter.
At nine o'clock, thoroughly tired out, we ride into Bokh, a
watering-place at the foot of the Somaliland maritime hills. The
road over the plain we have passed--we have covered sixty-five
miles--should be passable for camels only, but the wonderful little
mule carrying Mahomed, the interpreter, has trotted beside us and
enters camp as fresh as paint; that is to say he looks no more
tired, for he always looks tired, than he did yesterday.
Bokh has wells, hence its importance. My tent is pitched on a flat,
stony, open piece of ground at the foot of the hills and close
to one of these wells. As I write two girls are leaving it with
goat-skins, full of water, strapped to their shoulders. Three camels
packed with hides emerge from the bush beyond the well, led by an
elderly man who carries spear and circular shield. He is followed by
an individual dressed in dirty cotton knickers, a French military
coat, and with head and face almost hidden by a dirty cloak. This
latter person is from Abyssinia, and carries a Gras carbine. The
camel is laden with earthenware pots filled with ghee, cunningly
packed in bent cane guards. Now a large kafila[8]--some half-dozen
men and as many women--has arrived, and its owners are relieving the
camels of skins and ghee they bring. Loads off, the men and a couple
of women, lead the animals to the wells. In their hands they carry
home-made wooden basins which they fill with water for the beasts to
drink. The other women are arranging the loads, bringing firewood,
or lighting the fires. Their clothes are dirty and they seem tired,
though they set so briskly about their work.
[8] Caravan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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