Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Surrey (England) -- Description and travel
Croydon has some right to resent its threatened absorption into the
metropolis, for, as populous as London was three centuries ago, it is by
far the largest independent municipality in Surrey. It was a town of
high antiquity, and a main seat of the Archbishops of Canterbury in days
when those prelates had a dozen palaces in their diocese. The "Colliers
of Croydon" were once well known as burning charcoal in the woods
around. Then the town lay mainly to the west of the present main
thoroughfare, on low ground about the head-waters of the Wandle. This
part has been swept and garnished in our day; and with other old taverns
has gone the "King's Head," kept by Ruskin's grandmother. But Croydon
has still relics of the past among its smart modern features displayed
by electric light round the tower of its Town Hall. At the corner where
the chief street is gained from the Central station stands Whitgift's
Hospital, a "haunt of ancient peace" since it was founded by Elizabeth's
archbishop; but it is now threatened with removal or alteration as
standing too much in the way of the busy tram line, that seems already
to have pushed the Brighton coaches off this road, where Croydon's
"Greyhound" was once a well-known stage. From the crossing at Whitgift's
Hospital, Church Street leads down to Croydon Church, destroyed by fire
forty years ago, but reproduced by Sir Gilbert Scott, and containing
some of the old monuments saved from that disaster. Close to it may be
seen the remains of the Archbishops' Palace, in part preserved and
restored, now, after being turned to base offices, used as an orphanage
school under care of the Kilburn Sisters. It is said to have been
founded by Lanfranc, and was occupied by a long line of prelates up to
George II.'s time.
When this palace was sold in 1780, the proceeds were used to buy
Addington Park, on the heights to the east, which became the
Archbishops' country seat till it in turn came to be sold and replaced
by a mansion at Canterbury in our time. The park, several miles in
circuit, shows a beautiful contrast of fir-woods and heath, recalling
Scotland, with the softer features of an English demesne; so one hoped
for it to escape the fate of being broken up for building lots, as seems
now the doom of its seclusion. But the Addington Hills on the Croydon
side, and the bare brow of Shirley, are open, giving a wide view over
South London, with the Crystal Palace in the foreground upon the edge of
Kent. Into a pretty corner of this county we soon pass by a conspicuous
windmill and the high built spire of Shirley Church, outside which, at
the east end, may be seen the tomb of Ruskin's parents, with a
characteristic inscription. Kent is entered a mile farther on, at West
Wickham.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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