Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Surrey (England) -- Description and travel
Later on, the chief celebration was the Feast of the Translation in
July, when came the largest gatherings about the saint's tomb--100,000
on one Jubilee occasion, it is said--while at all seasons there would be
bands of impatient or belated pilgrims passing to and fro on their
soul-saving or time-killing errand. Of no austere mood for the most part
were these wayfarers, who went along with singing, revelry, and the
telling of tales, less or more edifying; sometimes with roisterings that
won them an ill name among scandalised rustics, always apt to be
attended by a camp following of pedlars, minstrels, beggars, and knavish
tramps. Pilgrimage was the tourist travel of the Middle Ages, undertaken
with an eye to making the best of both worlds, to seeing life as well as
preparing for death. One who set out for Rome got to be called a
_roamer_, as a _saunterer_ took his name from the _sainte terre_; then
both these adventurers came to bear not the best of characters in the
quiet countrysides through which they might spread plague and pox, as do
the votaries of Juggernaut or Benares at this day. That very fleshly
personage the Wife of Bath had been thrice so far as Jerusalem; and
among her companions to Canterbury were such as could be styled
"Epicurus' own son," or "a good fellow"; one who had no concern about
"nice conscience," and another whose "study was but little on the
Bible," besides rascally parasites of the Church. Chaucer's company, of
course, came from London by Watling Street, while this southern road
would be the way from the west country, as well as for numerous troops
landing at Southampton from France. But, indeed, the fame of St. Thomas
shone far over Latin Christendom, in days when British pilgrims crossed
the sea to the Spanish shrine of St. James at Compostella.
From Winchester to Farnham, the Pilgrims' Way runs through Hants in the
valleys of the Itchen and the Wey, and seems roughly represented by the
present high-road. Let us take it up where it enters Surrey, soon
reaching the long main street of Farnham, in which the "Bush" and the
"Lion and Lamb" make halting-places for modern pilgrims to Winchester.
At a humbler inn some way outside of the town I have found the Pilgrims'
Way quite an unknown name, mention of it being received with blank
stares, and on the part of one elderly rustic with muttered comment on
persons that "come poll-prying after other people's business." Yet it is
to be seen from that house, and can be followed in a pretty straight
line all along the side of the Hog's Back.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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