The Great Court, or “Court of the Altar,” is littered with sculptured
stones—pedestals of statues, inscriptions in Greek and Latin, broken
columns, curbs of old wells and fragments of fallen cornices. On each
side of the few remains of the Basilica of Constantine are Roman baths,
which are carved in a graceful, profuse manner, very like those at Nîmes
in southern France.
The sculptors seem to have worked in three shifts. The first were mere
stone-cutters who removed surplus material, shaping a hemisphere where
a head was to appear in bas-relief, and indicating the rough outlines
of leaves and flowers. The second set of workmen carved the design more
carefully, leaving it for the third, the master-artists, to give the
final touches. In the temple baths we can see traces of the work of all
three classes. One part of the carving is finished to the last crinkle
of a rose leaf; another is but roughly blocked out by a mere artisan. It
seems that the full plan for the courts was never carried to completion.
Some think, indeed, that the only portion of the Great Temple itself
which was finished was the peristyle.
A little to the southwest of the Court of the Altar stands the Temple
of Bacchus. This suffers the fate of great men whose fame is eclipsed
by that of their greater brothers. Yet this “Smaller Temple,” as it
is commonly called, is larger than the Parthenon, and is surpassed in
the beauty of its architecture by no other similar edifice outside of
Athens. It was originally surrounded by forty-two columns, each fifty-two
and a half feet in height. A number of these have been overthrown by
earthquakes and cannonballs, but on the north side the peristyle is still
nearly perfect. One of the columns on the south side has fallen against
the temple, yet, although made up of three drums, the parts are held so
firmly together by iron clamps that it has broken several stones of the
wall without itself coming to pieces.
Intricate stone-cut tracery runs riot over the double frieze, the fluted
half-columns and niches, and the variously shaped panels which form the
roof of the peristyle. There are flowers and fruits and leaves, vines
and grapes and garlands, men and women, gods and goddesses, satyrs and
nymphs, and the youthful god himself, surrounded by laughing bacchantes.
Most elaborate of all is the carving around the lofty central portal,
which is probably more exquisite in detail than anything else of its kind
in existence. The door-posts are forty feet high, yet they are chiseled
with such a delicacy that they seem almost as light as a filigree of
Damascus silver-work. Upon the under side of the lintel a great eagle
holds a staff in its claws, while from its beak droop long garlands of
flowers, the ends of which are held by genii.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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