In the middle of his diminutive emporium, the typical Damascus merchant
sits all day cross-legged, smoking his water-pipe, reading from a
Koran placed before him on a little wooden book-rest, and eternally
fondling his beard. Frequently he says his prayers. Sometimes he varies
the monotony of a dull day by chatting with a fellow-merchant in a
neighboring shop fully ten feet away. The Jews and Christians of the
city may be annoyingly importunate; but the Moslems, who form the large
majority, seem insolently careless as to whether the passing stranger
pauses to examine their goods or not. Over their places of business they
hang gilded invocations to “the One who giveth sustenance,” and then
leave matters entirely in His hands. If nothing is sold all day, it is
the will of Allah: if a customer does come, it is the will of Allah—that
he shall be overcharged as much as possible.
Shopping in Damascus is not an operation to be hurried through with
careless levity. If you appear a promising customer, the merchant will
set coffee before you and, while you and he are drinking together, will
talk about anything under the sun except business. When you ask him
the price of an article, he may tell you to keep it for nothing, just
as did Ephron the Hittite when Abraham was bargaining for the Cave of
Machpelah.[29]
If, however, you offer a fair amount for that same “gift,” he will
protest that to accept such a paltry sum would necessitate his children’s
going hungry and naked. So he names a price about double what he expects
to get, and you suggest a sum equal to half what you are willing to pay.
Then follow vociferous exclamations, indignant gesticulations, and
sacred oaths, while his price slowly comes down and yours slowly goes up,
until at last they almost, though not quite, meet. Neither will change
his “last word” by a single piaster. Negotiations are at an end. You
turn scornfully to leave the shop of the extortioner, while the merchant
commends his business to God and resignedly begins to wrap up the goods
and return them to their shelves. He does this very deliberately,
however, and just then—because you two are such good friends, whose
appreciation of noble character finds its ideal each in the other’s
life—you decide to split the difference, the purchase is completed, and
you part with mutual protestations that only a deep, fraternal regard
forces you—and him—to conclude the bargain at such a ruinous figure.
“It is bad, it is bad, saith the buyer;
But when he is gone his way, then he boasteth.”[30]
Perhaps the shop-keeper will still, however, detain you for a glass of
sherbet. If he does, then you have probably paid too much, after all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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